My Street Location: Wheatley Place, Keir Hardie Estate, Merthyr Tydfil, CF47 0TA, Ordnance Survey Grid Reference 305 701 Easting, 205 427 Northing, What Three Words: visual. human. light.
Introduction
We are all local to somewhere – to places, as large as a city, county or country, and to places as small as a street or house. In 2020 a nationwide initiative was set up to encourage people to write the history of the street they live in or once lived in. “The Story of Our Street,” invited research into the history of the land the street occupied, the street’s origin, its buildings, and significant events and notable inhabitants, if any, that may be associated with the street.
In 1948 I was born at number thirty-seven Wheatley Place, Keir Hardie Estate, and lived there for the first twenty-five years of my life. Wheatley Place was a brand-new street built in 1948 as part of Merthyr Tydfil County Borough Council’s post-war house building programme. Not a street of great age compared with streets in other parts of the Borough of Merthyr Tydfil but after seventy-seven years it has a history, albeit small, that needs telling. This is an account of the street and the land it occupies from its beginnings to the time my parents left number thirty-seven for a new home in Bro Dawel, Plymouth Street, in 1980.
Aerial view of part of Keir Hardie Estate, taken in 1988, in the centre of the picture is Greenwood Close with Jowett Avenue to the right and Wheatley Place to the left. Portions of Aneurin Crescent can be seen encircling Jowitt Avenue and Wheatley Place.
Keir Hardie Estate was built on the remaining portion of Ysgubornewydd Farm, and to those living in the area the estate was known as the “Sgubor or Skeepo.” Once, Ysgubornewydd was a much larger farm sandwiched between the parish road; ‘Heol Ferthyr,’ to the east and the Nant Blacs to the south. The farmland sloped down the valley side from its eastern boundary; the top of Gilfach Cynon (Heol Ferthyr), westwards towards the Merthyr turnpike road, now known as Plymouth Street.
The chapters which will appear over the next few months tell the story of Ysgubornewydd Farm, Keir Hardie Estate, prefabricated BISF houses, and Wheatley Place and our house number thirty-seven.
The Welsh cake is part of our national fabric, who among us has not proudly presented a cake to our non-Welsh friends as if it was our national emblem. When living in England, on or near every Saint David’s day, a batch of cakes would be taken into work to share with our work colleagues. Two of our granddaughters living in England, and who call themselves Wenglish, always take some into school for their teachers.
Baked on a bakestone/griddle, the ‘stone’ can form part of family tradition and be handed down from generation to generation. Early on in our marriage, my father who was the maintenance electrician at Vaynor Quarries, had the works blacksmith make us our bakestone. Made of cast iron, 25cm in diameter and 1cm thick, it weighs a hefty four kilos, which needs careful handling whether hot or cold. The ‘stone/maen’ has served us well for over fifty years and was used for this Saint David’s day (2025).
The following recipe for Welsh cakes is from an old dog-eared Be-Ro recipe book; hence the measures are imperial not metric. Be-Ro, formally Bells Royal, introduced their recipe books in 1923 to try and encourage the use of self-raising flour as opposed to plain flour; “Be-Ro cuts out oven doubt” The current Be-Ro book is in its 41st edition, ours is the 34th. Strangely, the recipe is titled Welsh Girdle Cakes, girdle being a North of England word for griddle.
Recipe:
Ingredients:
Eight ounces of self-raising flour
½ teaspoon of salt (optional)
Four ounces of margarine or butter
Two ounces of caster sugar
Two ounces of currents or sultanas
One egg (beaten)
Two tablespoons of milk
Stages:
Mix flour, salt in a basin, and rub in margarine or butter.
Add sugar and currents or sultanas.
Mix to a fairly stiff dough with egg and milk.
Roll out thinly on a floured surface, cut into rounds with a two or three-inch cutter.
Bake on a moderately hot, well-greased griddle for three minutes each side.
Each serving provides 357 Kcal, 5g protein, 46g carbohydrates (of which 18g sugars), 16.5g fat (of which 10g saturates), 1.5g fibre and 0.7g salt.
The above recipe will make approximately twenty-two cakes using a two-inch cutter, while a larger cutter, three-inch, will make about ten cakes.
In 2016 a bust with major Merthyr connections was discovered in Aberystwyth University. Below is the story of the discovery, transcribed with the permission of the University.
A missing marble bust by eminent Welsh sculptor Joseph Edwards (1814-1882) has been rediscovered overlooked in an under-stairs cupboard in the Old College at Aberystwyth University.
The bust, of prolific nineteenth century scholar and historian Thomas Stephens of Merthyr Tydfil (1821-1875), is believed to have reached Aberystwyth along with Stephen’s papers which were donated by his family to the National Library of Wales.
At the time, the National Library of Wales was housed in the Old College.
The bust may have been overlooked when the papers were transferred to the new National Library of Wales building in the late 1930s.
Neil Holland from the School of Art explains: “A great deal of work has taken place since the 1960s to re-catalogue and re-assemble artefacts and collections donated to the University since 1872, and as far as we can recall we have never come across any accession record for the bust of Thomas Stephens in all that time. So it has been hidden away for at least 40 years.”
Joseph Edwards
Joseph Edwards’ love of carving was revealed at an early age. Also from Merthyr Tydfil, and the son of a stone cutter, Edwards left for London in 1835 at the age of 21, after two years apprenticed to a memorial mason in Swansea.
There, after almost succumbing to starvation, he was taken on as a studio assistant by sculptor William Behnes. Two years later, in 1837, Edwards entered the Royal Academy of Arts, where he won several awards for his work.
Numerous commissions followed, and in the ensuing years Edwards created a large number of allegorical works such as The Last Dream, Religion consoling Justice, a monument to Sir Bernard Bosanquet and Religion which was shown at an international exhibition.
In 1838 he was taken on by sculptor Patrick MacDowell, and assisted him in the production of works such as Girl Reading, Triumph of Love and Virginius.
In 1860 Edwards’ began assisting Matthew Noble, and upon Noble’s early death in 1876 Edwards was given responsibility for the considerable task of completing his outstanding commissions and selling original plaster models for the benefit of Noble’s widow and children.
Upon completion of this work Edwards found himself in straitened circumstances and in 1881, sponsored by painter and sculptor George Frederic Watts, Edwards’ was awarded a financial award of £50 per annum under the Turner bequest. He died shortly after receiving the first instalment.
A year after his death The Red Dragon: The National Magazine of Wales wrote, ‘Of Joseph Edwards it may be said that Wales never had a truer or a more gifted son.’
Edwards was also well known for his portrait busts of contemporary figures and funerary monuments, often memorialising fellow Welshmen. Examples of his work can be seen in churches and cemeteries throughout Wales and England.
Thomas Stephens
Despite a lack of formal education, Thomas Stephens, an apothecary by profession, became one of Wales’ most innovative scholars, social reformers and cultural critics. His critical essay on the history of language and literature of medieval Wales, Literature of the Kymry, published in 1849 was met with international acclaim and even appeared in a German translation in 1864.
An important public figure in Merthyr Tydfil, Thomas Stephens led a number of initiatives to improve educational provisions, health and welfare of the town, where living conditions were deplorable and social unrest was prevalent. He co-founded its public library, helped to establish its health board, and advocated state-aided secular education.
Dr Marion Löffler from the University of Wales Centre for Celtic Studies Aberystwyth, who is currently leading a Leverhulme-funded research project focusing on Thomas Stephens, was delighted with the find: “This bust is an important part of Welsh intellectual and art history. Thomas Stephens is one of the best examples of a self-made Welsh Victorian and represents European amateur scholarship at its best.
“The story of the commissioning of the bust speaks volumes itself. When Stephens retired from his post as secretary of Merthyr Library on grounds of severe illness in 1862, a collection was made, but he refused the money. The committee then decided to commission fellow Merthyr man, Joseph Edwards, to create a commemorative artwork.”
In 1878 the Art Journal, the most important Victorian magazine on art, commented on Edwards’ bust of Thomas Stephens: ‘{The Welsh} may well be proud of their countryman, Joseph Edwards. There are artists who will make as good busts, but there is no living sculptor who can produce monumental work so pure, so refined, so essentially holy.’
To see the original story, please follow the link below.
110 years ago today, 29 March 1910, the Merthyr Express reported the opening of Merthyr’s latest great attraction, the Olympia Skating Rink, which had taken place on 19 March:
MERTHYR’S NEW SKATING RINK
OPENING CEREMONY BY THE MAYOR
ENTHUSIASTIC ASSEMBLAGE AT THE OLYMPIA
Roller-skating is attaining to great popularity in Merthyr. It was only in December last that the Central Rink, Wellington-street, was started. The proprietors found their enterprise successful, and also that the growing requirements of the public called for increased accommodation. Hence they embarked on a much larger undertaking, for which they took a site on Mr, Thomas’s land, Park-place, and entered into a contract with Messrs. Cross and Grose, Ltd., Walsall, for the erection thereon of a capacious rink — the Olympia — with approach opposite the Penydarren promenade, the spot being on the Merthyr and Dowlais electric tramway route, and easily accessible to visitors.
The new buildings, which has a length of 208ft., and an average width of about 70ft, rose as if by magic, the contractors being experts in such affairs, and having contracted rinks and floors at Dudley, Wolverhampton, Bath, Leamington, Walsall, Colchester, etc. The outside manager for the firm was Mr. J. James, a gentleman of twenty-three years’ experience, and who may be congratulated upon the admirable way in which he carried out his duties. The election of the new rink, with its extensive hard rock maple floor (so constructed as to reduce sound to a minimum), its accessories and fittings, offices, refreshment buffet and lounges, orchestral gallery, was completed in sixteen days — which constitutes a record for rapidity. — The concrete foundation had been previously prepared by Messrs. Warlow and Warlow, Merthyr.
Special attention has been given to the electric lighting, thirty pedants being distributed throughout the Rink by the Merthyr Electric Traction Company; and the decorative effects, which have been carried out by Mr. F. P. Dymond, Cardiff, are very pleasing. The Rink may, therefore, be regarded as not only one of the largest, but most attractive in Wales. The enterprising directors have catered lavishly in all respects for the entertainment and comfort of the public, and take every care to conduct the four sessions which are held daily, with the utmost regard for decorum and good order. The experienced attendants are civil and obliging, and the instructors are of the very best.
The Olympia Rink
RINK OPENED
The opening ceremony on Saturday afternoon was an encouraging success. It was known that the Mayor (Councillor F. T. James) would inaugurate the proceedings, and the crowd of people attending from Merthyr, Aberdare, and surrounding districts was very large. The Mayor, who was accompanied by the Mayoress (Mrs. F. T. James) and the Misses James, was received, upon entering the building, by the Chairman S. Phillips), and conducted to the dais, which had been erected for the occasion on the rink floor beneath the orchestral gallery. There was a very representative gathering. The first item in the programme was a well-played march by Mr. Cunningham’s military band.
The Chairman then rose to address the assemblage. He referred to the aims and accomplishments of the directors, and offered a hearty welcome to all present. He especially recognised the kindness of the Mayor and Mayoress in attending upon that interesting occasion, and mentioned that the new rink in which they had met possessed a skating capacity of £10,000 square feet, which was ten times greater than the floor space of their first venture, the Central Rink, and that the electric light equalled; 6,000 candle-power. He then invited the Mayor to perform the opening ceremony.
The Mayor, who was accorded a cordial reception, said that whatever might be said of rinking, one was bound to acknowledge that it was an exceedingly good exercise and a source of enjoyment to those who were young and active enough to engage in the healthful pastime. He had much pleasure in declaring Olympia Rink open for the purposes to which it was devoted (cheers).
The Band played the National Anthem, and at this point, Miss Peggy Lewis (daughter of Mrs. Henry Lewis) skated up gracefully to the dais, and in a pretty speech handed, as from the directors, a large and beautiful bouquet to the Mayoress, who bowed and briefly expressed her sense of the compliment.
A photograph of the opening ceremony was taken by Mr Charles Harris. Mr. John Plows referred to the interest which the Mayor had always taken in the affairs of the town and district, and to his public-spirited conduct on all occasions, and moved that a hearty vote of thanks be given him for the part that be had so ably taken in the proceedings.
Councillor F. S. Simons seconded the proposition, which was carried with enthusiasm. — This was acknowledged by His Worship, and Mr. Cunningham’s Band performed another attractive selection.
EXHIBITION OF EXPERT SKATING
An elaborate exhibition of expert skating, with musical accompaniments, was given by the instructor (Mr. Frank K. Deverall), Mr. Johns, and the instructress (Miss Wilkes). It may be mentioned that Mr. Deverall comes from the County Rink, Surbiton, and was previously associated for some years with Mr. J. F. Davidson, the champion skater of the world; and that Mr. Johns, whose capabilities are also of the highest order, is from Widnes, Lancashire. Miss Wilkes, whose style is very; elegant and graceful, comes from Folkestone. Hundreds of visitors put on skates, and there was high carnival during the afternoon. During the evening also, there was a very large attendance, and the proceedings were marked throughout with great success.
“For thirty years Mr. Boots associated himself with every progressive movement in the town and was a zealous and active worker in every good cause.”
This comment, which appeared in the Merthyr Express of November 10th 1923 in an article describing the occasion to honour Mr. Boots that was held three days earlier at the Belle Vue Hotel aptly sums up the contribution to the cultural and civic life of the Borough in the last decade of the Nineteenth and first two decades of the Twentieth Century by H. Harvey Boots.
Born in Aberbeeg and the brother of Welsh Rugby international, George Boots, Boots would embark on a career as a dentist. After being articled to Mr. Gill Williams of Newport Harvey Boots came to Merthyr in 1891 as an assistant to Mr. Musgrove with whom he completed his articles. After gaining further experience as a dentist in Croydon, Southsea and Bristol, Boots returned to Merthyr in 1896 and opened his own dental practice in the High Street.
Aside from his career as a dentist Harvey Boots made a valuable and pioneering contribution to the sporting life of the town. Initially his focus was on the rugby field where he turned out for both Merthyr Thursdays and Merthyr RFC, serving as chairman of the latter organisation whilst still turning out as player.
Boots also served as the first chairman of the Merthyr Athletic Club which had leased Penydarren Park from the Bolgoed Estate and was responsible for converting the site into a sporting arena. With the demise of the rugby union club Boots switched his attention to Merthyr Town AFC becoming their first chairman of directors. A true sporting all-rounder, Boots was also a keen bowls player and golfer being a member of first the Morlais and later the Cilsanws golf clubs, while he was also in great demand as an MC for whist drives.
Away from the sporting sphere Harvey Boots was a keen horticulturalist serving as vice-chairman of the Merthyr Horticultural Society and winning many prizes for his carnations while he also found the time to take an active interest in the Scout Movement in the town.
During the Great War although he was unable to volunteer for the armed forces Boots served as a special constable in the Borough and acted as honorary dentist to the Knighton Red Cross Hospital and travelled to Knighton every week free of charge and at his own expense to attend to wounded soldiers sent home from the front, actions which led to him receiving the diploma of the Red Cross & St. John Society.
In addition to the above Harvey Boots also played a prominent and active part in the public life of the town. After the Great War he was elected as the first chairman of the newly formed Merthyr Ratepayers Association. A lifelong member of the Constitutional Party Boots was one of the original members of the Constitutional Club in Thomastown. Furthermore, he was a devoted churchgoer serving as a sidesman in St. David’s Church and secretary of the Parochial Quota Fund.
A married man with two daughters Boots left Merthyr in the summer of 1923 for Great Yarmouth where he had purchased a large dental practice in the hope that the sea air would prove to be more beneficial for his health.
Over the next few months, various articles written by Harvey Boots will appear in this blog.