Merthyr’s Lost Landmarks: Treharris Public Hall

Merthyr has last so many of its important buildings and landmarks in the name of ‘progress’. In a new regular feature, I hope to highlight some of the marvellous places that have disappeared into the ether.

We start with Treharris Public Hall. The following article is taken from the marvellous website http://www.treharrisdistrict.co.uk, and is transcribed here with the kind permission of the webmaster, Paul Corkrey.

Treharris Public Hall

During 1891, the growing population of Treharris and its districts, meant there was a growing need for a large public hall to be built, to benefit the people. The cost of the project was the main concern and it was decided to hold concerts to raise funds and shares were to be sold to enable it to be a reality.

One such concert took place in August 1891. A huge marquee capable of seating an immense number of persons was obtained and erected near Bargoed House. Through the kindness of Deep Navigation Colliery manager, Mr Stewart, the marquee was illuminated most effectively with electric light. Mr Alan Wyn conducted the Treharris Choral Union, in an excellent performance of Haydn’s “Creation”, a large crowd attended and good funds were secured to get the project moving.

On 3 October 1891, The Merthyr Express reported that practical steps had been made towards having a public hall built in Treharris. A meeting had been held In Perrott Street, at the Tabernacle Vestry, the colliery manager (Mr Stewart) presided, with all classes of people represented. The meeting decided to canvas for shares and a large number have been taken. Mr W Cuthbert Thomas was appointed secretary. It was proposed to erect the new public hall on the square, at a cost of about £2,000.

A further meeting took place three weeks later and a committee was appointed to deal with the site and further matters.

The Merthyr Express, November 21 1891 further reported that to show interest, the Colliery Company, wanted to take an interest in the welfare of their workmen, and promised to give £50 a year for 5 years, towards the hall, about to be built. This is in addition to subscribing towards 250 shares in the hall company and letting the ground, which is in the very centre of the village and is most valuable, at the nominal rent of 5 shillings per annum.

Two concerts were held in October 1892, to raise further monies for the public hall, the first was presided over by Mr Stewart the colliery manager, whilst the second was under the presidency of the Rev D Phillips. They were both held at the Tabernacle Chapel and both raised goodly sums.

May 1893, was an exciting time for the District and the huge building constructed on the square was now completed and ready to be opened…the Merthyr Express reported “that the directors of the Public Hall Company should be congratulated on having secured a handsome and commodious building, in return for their outlay. The formal opening is planned for Whit Monday and tickets for admission are keenly sought.”

A public procession was arranged with Brass bands, it started at 1pm prompt and many hundreds lined the streets and joined the procession.

Other reports suggest the final cost of the Public Hall was around £3,300, but it included a Library, committee rooms and reading rooms. The library had over 1400 books, some in Welsh, it was financially supported by contributions from miners wages.

The Miners Workmens Hall served the community for almost 100 years. It was a community building and was used for great events, with huge crowds attending. It was a Theatre and became known as the “Palace”, a popular cinema for many years. It later fell into disrepair and was used as a bingo hall, snooker club and even as an indoor market (for one week).

The building was a typical Workmen’s’ Hall design with two shops at its base, either side of the entrance and facing the square. In 1920 one shop unit was a grocery store and the other housed a branch of Barclays Bank.

The Public Hall is now the Palace Theatre. Barclays Bank can be seen at the right. Photo courtesy of http://www.alangeorge.co.uk/index.htm

By 1937 it was the Palace Theatre, and had a 28 feet wide proscenium and a 20 feet deep stage. There were three dressing rooms. At that time the Palace Theatre was equipped with a Klang-Tobis sound sytem. By 1954, an RCA sound system had been fitted. By 1963, Cinema scope had been installed, with a screen within the original 28 feet wide proscenium. There were now four dressing rooms. The Palace Cinema was still open in 1966, but had closed by 1980.

The demolition of the Palace Cinema commenced on the 25th of January 2000. The site has been acquired by the Merthyr Tydfil Housing Association who are proposing to construct flats on the site. That was later discounted a green area was put there before further redevelopment in 2013.

During 1996, there were plans to try to save the building, now under private ownership, many of the villagers did not want to lose the historic building. Unfortunately, it was not to be and by 2000 the building was totally demolished, a sad end to the Hall, a landmark building, which could have been preserved for future generations.

The Public Hall in later years

Whitsun in Merthyr

As today is Whitsun Monday, I thought it would be interesting to see how Merthyr celebrated Whitsun in time gone by. Here is an article about the Whitsun holiday 145 years ago transcribed from the edition of South Wales Daily News of 4 June 1873.

WHITSUN HOLIDAYS IN MERTHYR

The town of Merthyr presented quite a gay and holiday appearance on Monday. The streets were lined with people, all bent on pleasure, and wearing thoroughly holiday aspect. The Brecon and Merthyr and Great Western Railway Companies ran special trains, and at Dolygaer there was a picnic, where amusements of all kinds were provided.

Yesterday “all the world and his wife” went to Caerphilly to hear that now world-renowned Welsh choir, accompanied by that only less celebrated Cyfarthfa Band. It is to be regretted that the weather was so unfavourable as the threatening state of the sky in the morning had the effect of deterring many would-be visitors to the delightful old castle and grounds. But in spite of all this, the excursion trains on the Great Western were crowded. Every facility had been given of the most satisfactory arrangements made for a most enjoyable excursion.

There had been originally some difficulty with respect to the young people of Merthyr having a day’s holiday at all, but the tradesmen most generously gave a holiday. This must be looked upon as most handsome conduct, for in many instances the concession was made at a great sacrifice and personal inconvenience. It seems that in the first place there was a movement on foot for closing generally on Monday, being a bank holiday, but many of the tradespeople objected, and it was suggested that Tuesday would be more convenient. However, one of the principal firms in the town opposed this for business reasons, and there seemed a fair chance of there being no holiday at all. The firm was perfectly willing to have granted the Monday as a public holiday, but felt that considerable inconvenience would arise from closing on Tuesday, particularly as no previous notice had been given.

The representatives of the two daily papers received numerous complaints from all classes of shop-assistants, pointing out the hardships under which they were labouring – that while many towns were giving two days holiday and all the rest one – it seemed excessively unfair that in Merthyr there should be no holiday at all. Knowing the generosity of the Merthyr tradesmen generally on such points, the representatives of both the papers waited on the firm in question and explained the complaints which they had received. On the matter being placed before them in a true light, the heads of the firm at once, in the most handsome manner, signified their willingness to consider the point, although at great personal inconvenience. Upon this being made known to the rest of the employers, a general holiday was declared, and in the afternoon bills appeared in all the windows, “This establishment will be closed to-morrow, Whit-Tuesday.”

The movement was taken up by the leading firm of grocers, which resulted in its being followed by the ironmongers, stationers, and others, so that yesterday was a holiday in Merthyr, and although many did not, in consequence of the unfavourable weather, take advantage of the opportunity offered, there were many hundreds who did, and in fact the streets were as noticeable yesterday for their emptiness as they were on Monday for their crowds. But the people had a holiday, and it is to be hoped that they enjoyed themselves thoroughly.

Merthyr’s Chapels: Nazareth Chapel, Troedyrhiw

We continue our regular look at Merthyr’s chapels with Nazareth Welsh Calvinistic Methodist Chapel in Troedyrhiw.

Sometime during the middle years of the 1800’s, several members of Pontmorlais Chapel decided to start a Sunday School in Troedyrhiw.

The Sunday School was firstly held at the Harp Inn until these premises were given over to the Welsh Independent congregation. The Sunday School then moved to a house in Wyndham Street and finally to the long room of the Heath Conservative Club.

The local Methodists, however, had to travel to Graig Chapel in Abercanaid to worship, so it was decided to build a chapel in Troedyrhiw. Nazareth was built in 1858, the architect being Rev Evan Harris, minister of Pontmorlais Chapel, and the builder was Mr Rees Powell. At first, services were conducted by deacons from Pontmorlais Chapel, but by 1874 membership had grown sufficiently to warrant calling their own minister, and Mr D G Jones was appointed Nazareth’s first minister.

Major renovations were carried out in 1897 to a design by Dr Aaron Davies which gave the chapel its current appearance. The vestry was also built at this time. Further renovations were carried out in 1926 at a cost of £1,411.1s.7d.

The 1904 Religious Revival affected the fortunes of the chapel with dozens of people joining the congregation. By 1917 the chapel had 162 members, with 238 attending the Sunday School which had 27 teachers and 2 superintendents. By the 1960’s however, the congregation and Sunday School attendance had declined drastically, with the children’s Sunday School eventually closing in 1977, and the chapel closing in 2000.

Dr Merlin Pryce

Was it Fleming or Mr & Mrs Pryce’s boy from Troedyrhiw? 

by Irene Janes

Parents, Rachel and Richard Pryce owned a tavern in Troedyrhiw. Little did they think, in 1902, when their son was born, he could save millions of lives forever, but did he?

Their lad Daniel Merlin Pryce was a bright boy. He attended Merthyr County School, Pontypridd Grammar School, and at the age of seventeen, the Welsh National School of Medicine Cardiff. However, the call of a Junior Research Scholarship to study at St Mary’s Hospital, London, with Alexander Fleming lured him away from Merthyr Tydfil.

Aged twenty-five, and now known as Merlin Pryce, he worked alongside Alexander Fleming in his Bacteriology Department and it is here this fascinating story begins.

Apart from being hard working colleagues the two men became close friends. Fleming was at times a bit untidy and did not always clear away what he had been working on. In 1928 he was experimenting with the culture Staphylococci. In his eagerness to go on holiday for the summer a number of Petri dishes were overlooked.

Several weeks later, Merlin called in to St Marys Hospital see his old friend, who was due back from holiday. Alexander was late so Merlin pottered around tidying up Fleming’s laboratory. It was then he found the Petri dish, which had held the Staphylococci culture. His attention was immediately drawn to a fungus which had grown and how it had destroyed the Staphylococci.

Merlin Pryce

So who did discover penicillin? Was it Merlin for finding the dish and showing his friend the exciting possibilities of investigating the mould? All the accolades have fallen to Fleming. In my untrained medical mind, it seems to be a matter of luck. It all hangs on who picked up the Petri dish and became aware of the destroyed Staphylococci.

Luckily for us Merlin’s sister, Mrs Hilda Jarman, lived in London when this groundbreaking discovery occurred, and had no doubt it was her brother that drew it to Alexander’s attention. He praised Fleming for his re-culturing of the mould as seminal and crucial, and felt disqualified for any glory and praise. She told how Fleming wanted to include Merlin as a significant contributor but her brother ‘would not accept the suggestion’, Merlin’s children confirmed this.

Time moves on and Merlin is a Professor and Alexander a Knight of the realm. During World War Two when Fleming’s house was bombed his whole family stayed with the Pryce family.

Merlin’s wife Molly, in her career as a nurse, encountered many unmarried mothers. They often welcomed some of the girls into their home before and after their babies were born until, they were strong enough to leave.

In 1945, The Nobel Prize for ‘Physiology or Medicine’, was collectively awarded to Alexander Fleming, Sir Howard Florey and Earnest B Chain. Foley and Chain further investigated the possibilities for penicillin. The rules state only three names can be on the Nobel Prize medal.

Merlin was a shy modest man, a co-operator more than a competitor. He was loyal, warm, sincere, and tolerant and had a great a love for his fellow men. Is this why he was more than happy for Fleming to take the praise? Did he see his role as no more than an opportune moment rather that of discovery? We will never know any more than who first set foot on the top of Mount Everest, Hillary or Norgay.

Nevertheless, we know the two men remained close friends all their lives so obviously animosity was not cultured in or over that Petri dish.

Fleming’s papers are in the British Museum Library and not available for inspection. The Pryce diaries have been lost.

Where every the tribute should be laid Professor Merlin Pryce had an unblemished reputation as a Doctor and teacher and for that alone Merthyr should be proud of him.

**I have received the following e-mail in response to this article:-

I have read the article by Irene Janes and I think you should know of Merlin Pryce’s other Merthyr connections. His father’s sister married Enoch Morrell who was Mayor of Merthyr Tydfil from 1905 to 1906. Therefore Merlin was a cousin to Will Morrell, Enoch’s son. Merlin’s sister, Hilda, told me that Will Morrell had taught her mathematics at the Merthyr County School and that he later became the headmaster there. I think he retired about 1946. His daughter became a doctor and married a Swansea surgeon, Eric Morgan.
Vivian Thomas (son-in-law of Merlin’s sister)

Merthyr: Then and Now

LOWER HEOLGERRIG

by Jason Meaker

Photo courtesy of http://www.alangeorge.co.uk/index.htm

The first photo, above, from the 1970’s, is taken from underneath the Gethin Bridge looking towards Pantycelynen Houses. The remains of the old Brecon and Merthyr Railway Bridge can also be seen.

In the second photo, below, taken in 2018, the Gethin Bridge has been replaced by the new bridge carrying the A470 road, and the remains of the old railway bridge have disappeared.

Photo by Jason Meaker

Place Names in Merthyr

by Terry Jones

In 1887, Rev Thomas Morgan, the minister at Caersalem Chapel in Dowlais, published a book entitled ‘A Handbook of the Origin of Welsh Place Names’. Below are transcribed some excerpts from the book that have a bearing to some places in Merthyr.

Abercanaid
The village is situated near to the spot where the rivulet Canaid discharges itself into the Taff. Canaid means white, pure, bright.

Aberfan
Ban – High; Banau Brycheiniog, the Brecknock Beacons. Fan is a brook that falls into the River Taff at that place. Two farmhouses also bear that name. The village is also called Ynys Owen, from a farm of that name. The railway station has been designated Merthyr Vale, and henceforth, the village will, doubtless, be know by the same name.

Clwydyfagwyr
Clwyd -a hurdle, a wattled gate; y- the; fagwyr/magwyr – a wall, and enclosure.

Cyfarthfa
Cyfarthfa is the right name according to some, signifying the place of barking. It is said it was a general rendezvous for hunters. One writer thinks it is a corruption of Cyfarwydd-fa, the place of Cwta Cyfarwydd, one of the heroes of Welsh legend.

Dowlais
Some derive the name from Dwrlais, the supposed name of the brook that flows through the old ironworks, and joins the Morlais Brook at the upper part of Penydarren. ‘Clais dwfr a glan‘ the water’s edge was an old Welsh expression. Dwr might be easily changed to dow. Dowgate, London was once called Dwrgate. Llandwr, a small parish in the Vale of Glamorgan, is now called Llandow. Others think it is a corruption of Dwylais, from the confluence of the two brooks in the place. Others derive it thus: du – black; clais – a small trench or rivulet. We rather think the right wording is Dulas: du – black; glas – blue, signifying the livid water. Our forefathers were wont to name the rivulets and rivers from the respective hue of their waters. Dulas is a very common appellation in Welsh topography, and we find its cognate in Douglas, Isle of Man. And, strange to say, Morlais or Morlas is in close proximity to Dulas in several districts of Wales, and in Brittany we find its cognate in Morlaix. This coincidence inclines to think that glas, blue, is the suffix of both names. Mor-glas – sea-green colour. Du-glas – black and blue. We have five Dulas in Wales, three in Scotland, and one in Dorset; and the word appears in different forms:-Douglas – once in the Isle of Man, twice in Scotland, once in Lancashire, and twice in Ireland; Doulas in Radnor; Dowles in Salop; Dawlish in Devon and Dowlais in Glamorgan.

Gwaelodygarth
Gwaelod – bottom, base; y – the; garth – hill. The mountain that towers of the village is called Mynydd-y-Garth, and the village resting at its base is naturally called Gwaelodygarth.

Gelligaer
Gelli – grove. This name is probably derived from Caer Castell, the ruins of which still remain near the village. It was built by Iorwerth ab Owen in 1140.

Gellideg
Gelli – grove; deg/teg – fair.

Goytre
A compound of: coed – wood and tre-  dwelling place.

A Hidden Grave

Most people will have visited Zoar Chapel – either when it was still being used as a chapel, or more recently since its renovation and transformation into Canolfan Soar. How many of you knew, however, that there is a secret grave inside the building?

In 1841 the membership of Zoar Chapel had grown to such an extent that it was decided that a new, larger building was needed to accommodate the growing congregation. They decided that the new chapel should be 66 feet by 63 feet – making it one of the largest chapels in the town.

To accommodate the new building, as well as building over the graveyard, which was subsequently vaulted under the new chapel, the committee had to purchase several pieces of ground from Mr Abraham Bowen, a local businessman for £300. As the orientation of the new building was to be turned 180°, three small houses would need to be purchased from Mr John Morgan, a puddler in the Cyfarthfa Ironworks, for the entrance to the new chapel.

The grave in the cupboard at Zoar Chapel – the top can be seen just against the back wall.

John Morgan agreed to sell the houses for £200, but he stipulated that he and his family should have a vault set aside for them and they eventually be buried within the chapel. As it is set out in the agreement of 31 May 1841:-

“The said John Morgan in consideration of the sum of £200.00 to be secured in the after agreement to sell unto Benjamin Owen, a piece or parcel of ground situated at the back of Zoar Chapel for its rebuild.

John Morgan his executor’s administrators and assigns sufficient space beneath the surface of the said ground at the spot marked “A” in the said plan for a vault to be made by him or Zoar executors at his own expense in length eight feet in width, and three feet in depth, eight feet with of liberty entrance and accepts thereof and which said space at the southern side, which said space is to be arched over securely by the said Rev Benjamin Owen for the residue of 195 years by indenture of lease dated 22nd June 1802 made by Walter Walters and Henry Thomas known as Harri Blawdd (Henry the flour) for a yearly pepper corn rent.”

Indeed John Morgan and his family were eventually interred within Zoar Chapel and their grave can still be seen in small room to the left of the former pulpit.

A close up of the grave.

Photos courtesy of Canolfan Soar.

The Town that Died

Has anyone read R L Lee’s remarkable book ‘The Town that Died’? The town in question is Dowlais, and the book recounts his memories of growing up there.

Dowlais is not a bad place at all, but when you compare the town today to how it was – for a lot of people from cherished memories, for others, relying on photographs, you can see that the epithet is a just one.

Below is an excellent photograph of Dowlais taken in 1920’s from the mountain behind the Ironworks (the present day Goat Mill Road). You can see what a large and bustling it place it was. A lot of the more prominent buildings are numbered and identified beneath the photo.

1.      Gwernllwyn Chapel
2.      Hermon Chapel
3.      Shiloh Chapel
4.      Elizabeth Street Chapel
5.      Bryn Sion Chapel
6.      Dowlais Works
7.      Temple Buildings
8.      Ivor Works
9.      Elim-Tabernacle Chapel
10.    Oddfellows Hall
11.     Bethania Chapel

Almost everything in the photograph has gone. Of the buildings numbered above, only Bethania Chapel still remains.

The Town that Died indeed.