August 2019 – The Melting Pot

Merthyr Tydfil Historical Society

The Merthyr Tydfil Historical Society is pleased to announce details of forthcoming lectures.

Monday 2 September 2019
The Rev Maber and Merthyr’s Glebelands
Barrie Jones

Monday 7 October 2019
Anthony Bacon (1717-1786) ‘A Man of Foresight’
Founder of Cyfarthfa Ironworks
Mary Owen

Monday 4 November 2019
Some Aspects of Early Nineteenth Century Housing in Merthyr Tydfil
Clive Thomas

Monday 2 December 2019
Evan Roberts the Evangelist
David Pike

Meetings are held at Canolfan Soar at 7.00pm
Membership – £10 per annum
Non members – £2 per lecture

ALL ARE WELCOME

Merthyr: Then and Now

TYDFIL HALL CHAPEL

Below is a photograph of the opening of Tydfil Hall Forward Movement Chapel in Pontmorlais on 9 May 1907.

It was designed by Mr Arthur D Marks and built by Mr William Watts of Dowlais. The building cost £1,300 and the excavation of the site £2,700.

Unfortunately, the cause was not a great success, and the chapel closed in 1930. Following its closure, the building was used as the Labour Exchange and later as the Unemployment Benefit office. It is was left derelict following a fire, and the building has now been demolished, just leaving the facade, as part of a new housing development, as the photo taken in 2019 below shows.

Most of us remember it as the Labour Exchange/Benefits Office but I wonder how many of you knew that it was originally a chapel?

Water, water everywhere….

The summer of 1899 was one of the hottest on records in Britain, indeed, it was recorded that it was the fourth hottest summer recorded since 1659. As a result of the weather, the whole of the country was suffering from a drought. Merthyr was no exception, however in August of that year, a number of burst water mains in the town exacerbated the situation.

These problems were reported in several newspapers 120 years ago today (26 August 1899):-

…..and on a lighter note:-

Train Crash at Pant Station

Following on (indirectly) from our last post, the news report transcribed below appeared in the Western Mail 145 years ago today (24 August 1874)

ACCIDENT ON THE BRECON AND MERTHYR RAILWAY

A STOKER KILLED AND A PASSENGER INJURED

On Saturday evening another accident occurred on the Brecon and Merthyr Railway, when the last evening train was wending its way from Brecon to Newport. At a quarter past six o’clock, just as the passenger train had approached Pant station at the point of junction which leads to the Dowlais branch, the engine, from some defect in the points or otherwise, left the rails, and, after an abrupt deviation towards the Dowlais branch, came to a standstill.

The stoker, on perceiving something wrong, either jumped off, or was violently thrown from the footplate of the engine. He was instantaneously killed. His name is John Price, of 26, Dolphin-street, Newport. The engine dragged after it one carriage, which appears to have become separated from the other portion of the train at the time of the accident, and in this carriage was a woman, named Elizabeth Jefferies, wife of a bailer at Ebbw Vale, whose leg was broken. The rear portion of the train passed for a short way along the main line. It contained a great many passengers, none of whom sustained injury. The injured woman was conveyed to the Bruce Hotel, Dowlais, where she received every treatment from Dr. Griffiths, of Dowlais. An inquest will be held on the deceased as soon, as practicable.

ANOTHER ACCOUNT
(FROM OUR OWN CORRESPONDENT)
MERTHYR, SUNDAY

This line seems fated to become notorious in the annals of accidents. The inquest has not yet been held over the remains of the victims of the last, when another occurs, and this time to a passenger train.

On Saturday evening the “4.30 passenger” from Brecon to Newport was arriving at the Pant Station, a little way from Dowlais, and where the main line to Newport forms a junction with the branch to Dowlais, when the locomotive suddenly left the metals, and a scene of wreck and disaster at once occurred. Though only 500 yards or so from the station, the pace of the train was rapid. I am not aware whether the carriages are furnished with continuous breaks, but I believe this is the case, and thus up to the closest vicinity of the station the pace is rapid. The locomotive kept exceedingly close to the metals, but it must be noted for future examination on the Pant side.

Some of the carriages were upset, and two of the passengers at least severely injured. One of them at the moment of the accident opened the carriage and jumped out and broke her leg. She was a very stout woman, and this case may be serious. One of the carriages was completely overturned, and the passengers thrown in a heap, but no bones were broken. The stoker, a young married man, named Price, aged 26, was thrown under the wheels of the locomotive and instantly killed. This was the only death, but the injuries received were numerous, though all but two managed to go on with the train.

The scene of the accident has been thronged, but only a heap of matchwood, the remains of one of the carriages, showed where the calamity took place.

It seems a difficult matter to account for the accident. Had the points been at “half”, precisely the same thing would have occurred, but in this case the points are worked from the signal box, and were locked at the time. It will be seen by the official inspector’s report that the first trace of leaving the metals is at the points, and the first blow on one of the fish-plates. Could the flange of the wheel have struck this at a critical place, the facing points just before or on a curve are extremely dangerous, and should be altered.

This is the first accident that has occurred in the locality, which is one of great archaeological interest. The place is called Pantcoed Ivor, and is so named from the redoubtable worthy who scaled Cardiff Castle and sorely grieved the doughty earls of Glamorgan in days of yore. Nearby is a hollow where he is traditionally supposed to have fought his last battle, and on the other side a place called Rhyd-y-bedd, which is associated with his burial. Here, then, by ancient wells, and amidst the moss and the ivy of the past, comes another railway disaster, and its scenic accompaniments, which, too often, alas, mar one of the noblest handmaids of civilization. Where Ivor Bach marched in battle array the locomotive sweeps, and trains of commerce and pleasure are rapidly brushing aside a locality which is only again brought into notice by this railway catastrophe.

The Last Trains

I have received a very interesting e-mail from David Gabriel which I have transcribed below.

I am currently carrying out a research project involving the history of various lines post closure of their passenger service until final withdrawal of residual freight services and subsequent dismantling of their infrastructure. I have commenced this project with railways in South East Wales, in particular lines in the Merthyr area including the route to Brecon. I have now accumulated sufficient initial material to start a blog: www.thelasttrains.wordpress.com and accessed via Google Chrome. This includes various photographs some of which were kindly provided to me by the well known railway photographer, Mr Ben Ashworth.

The last train at Dowlais Central Station

I am seeking further material and if anyone can help by providing any further relevant information and perhaps loan or copies of photos, I would be most grateful and happy to defray any costs incurred. My e-mail address is davidgabriel@btinternet.com

Memories of Old Merthyr

We continue our serialisation of the memories of Merthyr in the 1830’s by an un-named correspondent to the Merthyr Express, courtesy of Michael Donovan.

Above Gillar Street there was no opening on the right hand side used as a thoroughfare until John Street (now part of the entrance to the railway station) was come to, and John Street was really a private road, for there was a door across near the Tramroad, which was often locked. Then on the same side, adjoining the premises of the Brecon Bank, was a narrow road leading to the Tramroad and Professional Row.

On the left hand side, after Three Salmons Street, was the Swan opening, now called Swan Street I believe, and, with the exception of an opening into a malthouse and back entrance of three or four houses, there was no other until the one at the post-office (Glebeland Street) was come to.

The market was held in Three Salmons Street, along the High Street for a part, and in the yard between the ironmonger’s shop (now Mr Wm. Griffiths’s) and the next shop above. In Three Salmons Street a Mr Kay kept a boot and shoe establishment. At the corner was a druggist’s kept by one Farley. Mr Walter Smyth afterwards took this place, and subsequently moved to next door above, but which was then a butcher’s shop kept by Mr Lewis Lewis, who was also a partner with Mr David Williams, Ynyscynon, in collieries in Aberdare.

The Cardiff and Merthyr Guardian – 9 May 1846

The next above was then, as now, an ironmonger’s kept by Job James who also had a business in Cardiff, then, I think, but am not quite sure, a saddler’s kept by Adney, then a draper’s, Mr William James, whose sobriquet of ‘Billy for Snuff’ was, no doubt, fully deserved. Mr Stephens (whose cottage in Mount Pleasant has been alluded to) also had a shop there, and Mr Daniel Thomas (a brother of Dr Thomas, of the Court) kept a leather and curriery business; while at the very corner, in a very small building, Francis Argust carried on boot and shoe making.

Crossing Swan Street, what is now the Court Arms was then the London Warehouse, kept by Mr Lewis; and above, in one of the three or four houses before coming to Mr James’s malthouse, Barclay and Perkins opened a place for the sale of their ales and stout.

The Bristol and West of England Bank was first opened in Merthyr in another of those houses. The manager at the opening was a Mr George Pearce. The Gable end of Mr James’s malthouse abutted on the High Street, an adjoining, standing back a couple of yards, was the residence of that gentleman. I have said ‘Billy for Snuff’, and it is but right to explain that it originated in his having his snuff (for High Dry and Queen’s were much in vogue) from Bristol by coach via the Passage near Chepstow rather than by slow sloop to Cardiff, and barge thence to Merthyr. No doubt it was kept freer from moisture as well as arriving earlier at its destination.

To be continued at a later date…..

Merthyr’s Heritage Plaques: E T Davies

by Keith Lewis-Jones

In a new regular feature, local historian Keith Lewis-Jones is going to highlight the many heritage plaques that are dotted about around Merthyr. Following on from our last article, we start with E T Davies.

E. T. Davies
Plaque sited in the pedestrian access from High Street to Zoar Chapel. CF47 8UB

Evan Thomas Davies was born, into a musical family and from a young age loved music. Until 1898 he worked in an office whilst, in his spare time accompanying in concerts.

In 1898 he was asked to accompany a party of Welsh singers to the U.S.A. for nine months. Whilst in America he was asked to accept a musical position, but he declined.

From early on he adjudicated in eisteddfods all over Wales and was the chief adjudicator in the Choral Competition at the Corwen National Eisteddfod in 1918; his adjudication being “a model of terseness and lucidity”.

From 1903 to 1917, he was the organist at Pontmorlais Church in Merthyr. He conducted his first important Cymanfa in 1905 at Pontmorlais and subsequently was very successful as a conductor, with his sympathetic and helpful advice to choir and congregation.

In October, 1920 he was appointed to the important post of Director of Music at University College, Bangor. This was the first time that a full time Director of Music had been appointed at Bangor, and it fell to E. T. Davies to establish and build up the new department. Amongst others, he introduced weekly Chamber Concerts, a College Orchestra and Chamber Music classes.

E T Davies – Another Musical Giant

Evan Thomas Davies was born on 10 April 1878 at 41 Pontmorlais, Merthyr Tydfil. His father, George, was a barber, and owned a shop in South Street, Dowlais. The family was a musical one; George was precentor in Hermon Chapel, Dowlais, for nearly a quarter of a century, and his mother and his mother, Gwenllian (née Samuel) had a fine contralto voice. Evan was brought up in Dowlais, and he was given private tuition coming heavily under the influence of the famous local conductor and organist, Harry Evans. (see http://www.merthyr-history.com/?p=713)

At the age of sixteen, he passed the Advanced Honours Certificate of the Associated Board of the Royal Academy of Music and Royal College of Music. So successful was he in the exam that Sir Charles Villiers-Stanford, a renowned composer, and one of the founders of the Royal College of Music, persuaded him to pursue a musical career. The young Evan didn’t take his advice however, and took a job as an office clerk in Merthyr.

During this time however, he became the accompanist for both Harry Evans’ and Dan Davies’ choirs, and in 1898, he was asked to accompany a party of singers from Wales to the USA, and on his return, he finally decided to pursue a career in music. He soon was awarded the fellowship of the Royal College of Organists, and his reputation as an important musician in Merthyr was cemented during the first few years of the 1900’s performing several Gilbert and Sullivan operas with the Dowlais Operatic Society, and was acclaimed as the successor to Harry Evans as Merthyr’s foremost musician.

In 1903 he was appointed as organist at Pontmorlais Chapel, Merthyr Tydfil, and also became part-time singing teacher at the Merthyr County School. In 1904 he moved to Merthyr from Dowlais, and in 1906, when Harry Evans moved to Liverpool, E T Davies moved into his house ‘Cartrefle’, which housed a three-manual pipe organ.

After gaining his F.R.C.O. his services as a solo organist were in great demand, and he was said to have inaugurated about a hundred new organs in Wales and England. In 1920 he was appointed the first full-time director of music of the University College, Bangor, where he was responsible for numerous musical activities, and collaborated with (Henry) Walford Davies, Aberystwyth, to enhance knowledge of music in a wide area under the auspices of the university’s Council of Music. In 1943 he retired and moved to Aberdare, where he spent the rest of his life composing, adjudicating and broadcasting.

He first came into prominence as a composer after winning the first prize for ‘Ynys y Plant’ in the national eisteddfod held in London in 1909, and although he was not a very prolific composer, and tended to regard composing merely as a hobby, he had a beneficial influence upon Welsh music for more than half a century. Besides writing a few songs, he also composed part-songs, anthems and works for various musical instruments and instrumental groups, and about 40 of his tunes, chants and anthems are to be found in various collections of tunes.

He recognised the excellent work on folk-songs that John Lloyd Williams had done before him at Bangor, and he was one of the first Welsh musicians to find sufficient merit in the folk-songs to arrange them for voice or instrument. His arrangements of over a hundred of these songs, (many of them produced when the composer was in old age) have great artistic merit. He also took an interest in Welsh national songs, and was co-editor with Sydney Northcote of The National Songs of Wales (1959).

He married, 31 August 1916, Mary Llewellyn, youngest daughter of D.W. Jones, Aberdare. He died at home in Aberdare on Christmas Day 1969.

A Strange House, a Welsh Lawyer and an Italian Contessa

by Graham Watkins

To the north of Merthyr Tydfil, near the railway viaduct at Pontsarn, stands a very peculiar house. The property has been known by a number of different names, over the years, including Hafod Cottage, Vaynor Cottage, The Old Spanish House and, more recently, Hy Brasail. At the time of writing, the house, a Grade II listed, stands empty, neglected and looking very sad. What makes the house unique is the style in which it was built.

Like its name, Hy Brasail, the house, is shrouded in mystery. Some commentators have suggested that the house was named after ‘Hy Brasail’ – also known as ‘Hy Brasil’ – a mythical island somewhere off the coast of Ireland.

According to legend, the island is hidden by an inpenetrable mist except for one day every seven years. In the old Irish tongue the name of the island suggests beauty, great worth and might. In 1674, a Captain Nisbet was on a voyage from France to Ireland when he chanced upon the mysterious island. According to the Captain’s reports, a colony of enormous black rabbits inhabited the island together with a magician who lived alone in a castle. It’s an unlikely tale and a strange place after which to name a house near Merthyr Tydfil.

As well as having a strange name, the house called Hy Brasail is a bewilderment of ideas. Part of the dwelling is conventional and looks like a Victorian middle class house but a strange extension has been added. Stone columns hold up an incongruous arch while, just beyond, Spanish archways support an upper floor containing stone mullioned windows, sheltering from the weather under a Welsh slate roof. Alongside the mullioned windows, an upstairs veranda sits, surrounded by carved stone balustrades. To add to the discord, two Venetian stone towers emerge, like campaniles, from the roof. Even the towers, with their pink stone columns, are mismatched; one is larger than the other.

There are several opinions regarding the origins of the strange dwelling. Although there is no evidence to support the idea, some say it was built by an owner in the style of his wife’s Tuscan childhood home. It is known that a solicitor named Mr. James, whose law practice was in Merthyr, lived in the house in 1912. At the time the house, rather smaller than it is now, was known as ‘Vaynor Cottage.’ Each morning, Mr. James walked to Pontsarn Station to catch an early train to Merthyr. Each night he returned to his empty house. That summer, he went to Italy for a holiday where he met an Italian Countessa and immediately fell in love.

Thinking the holiday liaison was something more serious than a brief romance, Mr. James returned home and added an Italian style extension to his house with the hope that the Contessa would join him in Wales. To make the house more homely, he furnished it with fine furniture, porcelain and paintings and in the courtyard, at the front of the house, he placed a large statue of an eagle sat on a plinth. Sadly, the Contessa never came to Wales and Mr. James’ dream of love remained unfulfilled. The disappointed solicitor resumed his daily train rides to work and remained a bachelor for the rest of his life.

In 1948, a butcher by the name of Bowen bought Vaynor Cottage. Bowen’s Irish wife, a teacher, wanted a name for the house that was more in keeping with its size and quirky character. It was Mrs Bowen who renamed the house ‘Hy Brasail’ after the mythical island from Irish folklore.

The eagle was either sold or stolen in the 1980s and the railway station at Pontsarn has long since closed. Today, the old rail bed is part of the Taff Trail and walkers who enjoy the path pass close to Hy Brasail, a structurally odd derelict building and one of the strangest looking houses in Wales.

Many thanks to Graham Watkins for sharing this with us.

To read more about some of the unusual buildings in Wales please check out his book ‘The Welsh Folly Book’ (which includes a chapter on Hy Brasail).

You can also visit his website where you can also see this article and order this (and other) books.

https://www.grahamwatkins.info/

https://www.grahamwatkins.info/the-welsh-folly-book

A Visit to the Ragged Schools

The article, transcribed below, appeared in the Western Mail 150 years ago today (11 August 1869).

These schools, which have been established since 1864, and which educate about 130 children are mainly supported by the exertions of the rector and Mr. C. E. Matthews.

The school is thus described by one who visited it a few days ago:- There were about 100 children present, who were clad in little better than rags. Many of them had no shoes or stockings on. A good number of babies were there as well. The children presented a most pitiable sight, and certainly looked as if they wanted fresh air. They were put through their usual routine of work, and acquitted themselves in a manner highly creditable to Mrs. Jones, the schoolmistress. The feats of memory, for the ages of the children, were astonishing, especially those of two children named James and Lily Harding, brother and sister, aged eight and five years respectively. These two could repeat, any parable from the New Testament, the Creed, and the Ten Commandments, without the slightest hesitation. Their singing from memory, and other exercises, were equally praiseworthy, considering it was the first day after the holidays.

It is in contemplation to give the children a treat, by taking them to Pentwyn Reservoir, if sufficient funds can be procured for the purpose. The secretary, Mr. C. E. Matthews, has applied to the Brecon and Merthyr Railway Company for their terms, and they have consented to take the children to and fro at half a single fare, namely, fourpence each. It is hoped by the managers of the schools that they will be able to provide shoes and stockings for the poor children, who are without any, and that the public will respond liberally to their appeal for funds.

Below is an extract from an 1860’s map showing the Ragged School which was located in Bridge Street in Caedraw.