I remember that….

Cyfarthfa Park ‘Bird Garden’

by Laura Bray

There are many parts of Merthyr’s history than seem not to have been documented formally, although I am sure many of you will have photos. One such is the Bird Garden in Cyfarthfa Park. Who remembers this?

The Bird Garden, as I always called it, was basically a narrow corridor of bird cages that ran behind the tennis courts.  You got at it from the end nearest the “top swings”, mostly by running down the bank from the chalet, (there was later a short tarmacced path) preferably sticky from chocolate bought in the shop. I can’t remember what birds there were, apart from the peacocks, whose calls echoed round the park and were the accompaniment to many a boring lesson in school, but I do remember that they eventually added a small pond and expanded the cages further up towards the main road leading to the Castle.

It must have been there about 7 or 8 years – from the mid 1970s to the early 1980s, and there is no trace of it left today.

What do you remember about it? Share your memories in the comments below.

The Dark Side of Convict Life – part 11

by Barrie Jones

Chapter VIII. Henry describes Portland Prison’s cells, the classes of convicts and their perquisites, and the standard diet a convict could receive there.

The Dark Side of Convict Life (Being the Account of the Career of Harry Williams, a Merthyr Man). Merthyr Express, 12th March 1910, page 5.

Chapter VIII

The separate cell in a convict prison is what the reception cell is in a local prison, that is, a prison set apart for the receiving of convicts; but this also is a place of punishment known as the “refractory penal cell.” These cells are different to others, having the window in the roof instead of at the back of the wall. There are no tables, stools, bedding, etc., as in other cells, but only two gutta-percha utensils. The entrance to these cells is through a long winding passage, and the doors, which are double, have, in addition to a lock, a heavy iron bolt. After being made ready to be employed on public works I was taken to another part of the prison known as C hall, and I was located in a corrugated-iron cell, something, similar to those mentioned in a previous chapter at Dartmoor. These cells are very closely packed, and only a thin partition separates one man from the other. There are something like two hundred of them in each hall, and there used to be six halls in Portland, excluding the infirmary and penal cells, which are, of course, built of Portland limestone, namely A hall, B hall, C hall, D hall, F south hall and F north hall, the two latter being much lighter than the others. A, the foul-smelling dungeons have been condemned, and owing to the country having made an advance towards civilisation, the cells are now sweeter, and an ounce more of fresh air is allowed to travel into the lungs of a convict.

There is one thing in connection with these cells which pleases the convicts, and that is, it is possible to converse one with another without being overheard, as the iron partition having partly rotted away by age, there are holes which are often used as telephones. What drives a man out of his mind, and then to the lunatic asylum, quicker than the silent system? I can well remember talking to a poor wretch in one of those cells, in 1899. He was undergoing a term of fourteen years, and our conversation drifted towards the prison diet. He had only began his sentence, like myself, and it happened that I was allowed tea, instead of porridge, by orders of the medical officer, but no convict, properly speaking, was allowed tea under the rules until he had served two years’ of his term, that is, until he had attained, by good conduct, the distinction of a second-class convict. There are four classes, and each convict has to pass through as many as his sentence permits. He will begin in the probation class, and will remain in it one year, after which he will, by good conduct, be promoted to the third class, allowed to earn a gratuity of twelve shillings, and to write and receive a letter, also a visit of twenty minutes’ duration for each nine-hundred and sixty marks he earns in this stage. One year, from the third to the second stage, in the latter he will receive, instead of porridge, one pint of tea, half-ounce of margarine and two ounces of extra bread (ten ounces) each day in the week, and also be permitted to earn a gratuity of thirty shillings. After another year, again he will be promoted to the first class, and allowed to earn a gratuity of three pounds. Then, if undergoing a term of twelve years or upwards, after serving seven years and six months he will be entitled to earn an extra half-crown per month in order to purchase luxuries for himself, such as oranges, apples, marmalade, jam, biscuits, and so forth, except tobacco and beer, which are strictly prohibited. A convict in a special class will be entitled to six pounds on his release, but only on condition that he joins a Prisoners’ aid Society. Perhaps when he is discharged he finds work, but his employers may be informed that he is a ticket-of-leave man, and at once he is turned into the streets to either beg or thieve. He may have a wife and several little ones, who have been, for years, waiting his return, and they, too, of course, have to suffer. Is not this rather hard? Such is truly the case, without varnishing it in the least.

To come back to my conversation with this man undergoing fourteen years. He told me one day, when talking about the diet, that his stomach was so weak that it would not take the porridge, so, wishing to do him a good turn. I managed to devise a way in which to share my tea with him without being seen, and this is what I did. I took an old letter I had received from home, and I screwed it up into the shape of a tundish. I then placed the small end through a hole in the iron partition, and, holding the paper tundish with the left hand, I poured the tea into it with the right; the man in the next cell, at the same time, holding his tin cup ready to receive the liquid. Thus, in this small way, I befriended my fellow-convict.

Before concluding this chapter, I will give a list of the dietary for convicts of the present time:- Breakfast, 10 ounces of coarse bread, with one pint of tea, or porridge, and half-an-ounce of margarine. Dinner, Mondays, 16 ounces of beans, 16 ounces of potatoes, 8 ounces of bread, and two ounces of fat bacon; Tuesdays, 6 ounces of boiled mutton, 16 ounces of potatoes, and 8 ounces of bread; Wednesdays, 1 pint of pork soup, 16 ounces of potatoes, and 8 ounces of bread; Thursdays, 6 ounces of boiled beef, 16 ounces of potatoes, and 8 ounces of bread; Fridays, 1 pint of vegetable soup, 16 ounces of potatoes, 8 ounces of brad; Saturdays, 16 ounces of suet pudding (beef without bone, as the lags call it), 16 ounces of potatoes, and 8 ounces of bread. Sunday’s diet is considered the worst diet of the week; it consists of 6 ounces of tinned beef, 16 ounces of potatoes, and 8 ounces of bread. In addition to thus a convict on hard labour is allowed two ounces of cheese for supper twice weekly. To speak fairly, in quantity the diets are enough for an ordinary man, but sometimes the quality leaves much to be desired.

To be continued….

Memories of Cyfarthfa School…..again

Many thanks for all the comments regarding the previous post about memories of Cyfarthfa School – they are all fascinating.

To make things a bit easier, and a bit more structured, here are some guidelines that might help.

If you can tell us about any or indeed all of the subjects below, please e-mail them to any of the addresses below, or to the email for this blog merthyr.history@gmail.com

Laura Bray – jasonbray@aol.com

Steve Brewer – stevebrewer68@hotmail.co.uk

Carole-Anne Johnson – c.harris51@yahoo.co.uk

Please get in touch via e-mail rather than by commenting – we can then organise things more ‘formally’ to make sure that nothing is overlooked or taken out of context.

Thanks

Memories of Cyfarthfa School

Did you go to Cyfarthfa School? Did you teach at Cyfarthfa School?

Next year Cyfarthfa Castle celebrates its 200th anniversary. To mark the event, Cyfarthfa Castle Museum and Art Gallery in association with the Merthyr Tydfil & District Historical Society are planning to produce a book and exhibition recording people’s memories of Cyfarthfa School.

Castle School Geography Class 1914. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

If anyone would like to share their memories, big or small, in writing or orally, please contact one of the people below and we can let you know what sort of thing we are looking for:-

Laura Bray – jasonbray@aol.com

Steve Brewer – stevebrewer68@hotmail.co.uk

Carole-Anne Johnson – c.harris51@yahoo.co.uk

Let’s try for a good book with as many memories as possible.

Castle School orchestra 1950s. Courtesy of the Alan George Archive

Memories of Old Merthyr

We continue our serialisation of the memories of Merthyr in the 1830’s by an un-named correspondent to the Merthyr Express, courtesy of Michael Donovan.

We have now entered Dowlais – yes, to some extent, truly called dismal and dirty. No doubt it has redeeming traits, but from personal recollections I do not consider it had even the amenities that existed in Merthyr. It was, or seemed to be, more brusque, more aggrandising, but if Merthyr was truly a village in the early thirties, Dowlais was somewhat less. “Nothing extenuate, nor set down aught in malice” shall be my guide.

Up the brook a short way there was a brewery, erected by a Mr Powell of Abergavenny, whose father was a church dignitary there. The hill before us is steep, and the first road is one that doubles back in front of the Dowlais Inn, and then turns up to the right to the Dowlais Church, stables and on to the Ivor Works. This was kept by a James Henry, who went thence to keep another public house in Rhymney.

The Dowlais Inn. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

Keeping the coach road, another public house on the other side was the Vulcan. There were steps alongside down to the tramroad, and the lowest entrance gates into the works stood just there. Some short distance further there was another public house, whose name has slipped. It was, however, some four steps (nearly three feet) lower than the road. Mr David Williams and his aunt, Miss Teague, kept it awhile after leaving the Angel in Merthyr, but it was taken as the station of the railway from the Taff Vale, and used as such at the time.

Following this on the same side was a row of workmen’s cottages having their back to, but the ground floor much lower than the road. About six of what were then the best shops in the place being passed, the main entrance into the works and office was come to.

The shop nearest the entrance gates was, or had been, the old Company shop. It had, however, ceased to be carried on upon the truck system as far as can be recalled. A Mr Parnell was the manager, but there is some hazy idea of Mr Williams, the father of Mr Joshua Williams, of Aberdylais (sic), being connected with it. Mr Jenkins, the druggist, had a branch shop in the row; also a Mr D Lewis kept another druggist’s shop, and Mr Lewis, draper, of the London Warehouse, also had a branch. Immediately opposite to the entrance gates was the Bush Hotel, kept by Mr Richard Henry who had been a contractor in the works some years before.

The Bush Hotel in Dowlais c.1885. Photograph courtesy of the Alan George Archive

At the passing of the Reform Bill in 1832, Merthyr was made a borough, and privileged to send one member to Parliament. Sir John (then Mrs) Guest was returned, but he had previously been member for Honiton, and upon one occasion ordered a large number of pairs of boots and shoes there. They were dispatched to Dowlais to the company’s shop there, but Mr Parnell decline having anything to do with them. “He had not ordered them”, and knew nothing whatever about them.

Richard Henry was sent for to the office, he being then a contractor and having a great number of persons under him. “Dick I want you to sell a lot of boots and shoes for me” was said by Mr Guest. “Well, but master, I don’t want them, and how am I to pay for them?” was replied. “Oh that shall not trouble: you can pay when you sell the last pair”, was the rejoinder, and ‘Dick’ took them all but never sold the last pair. It is not possible to vouch for the strict accuracy of it, but I can vouch for having the narrative from Mr Richard Henry’s own lips.

To be continued….

Dowlais through the eyes of German Royalty

The following is transcribed from The King of Saxony’s Journey Through England and Scotland in the Year 1844. Trans. S.C Davison. London: Chapman and Hall, 1846.

As we approached Merthyr Tydvil (sic), the iron-works became more numerous; we saw everywhere smelting-houses and forges, little railways and canals for the conveyance of the iron from one place to another. In one valley we saw below a canal, and a railway for locomotive engines; higher up, the road upon which we were, and still higher, a tram-road for the conveyance of materials and workmen belonging to the mines. We met on another occasion, on such a tram-road, along train of black coal-waggons, and others covered with workmen black and brown with dust – a curious sight! And what mountains of dross were piled up. Certainly, the quantity of iron produced in these mountains must be enormous.

The race of people which we found here, is very much the reverse of handsome; the women wear men’s hats on their heads, or black straw hats, and along with this, a very awkward, ungraceful dress. I was reminded once or twice of the women of Unalaska, mentioned in ‘Cook’s Voyages’.

All other considerations however vanish, when one comes to understand the size and extent of the iron-works themselves. The first we visited, in which six blast furnaces were at work, presented an extraordinary sight. Above the flaming chimneys of the blast furnaces the heated air trembled, and made the outlines of the mountains of dross behind them appear wavy. I could not help imagining these mountains of dross to be volcanoes, and the blast furnaces little burning craters on the sides of the larger ones. The impression produced was a much more powerful one, when we went further and took a view of the great iron-works belonging to Sir John Guest and Company. One could easily have believed oneself transferred to the blazing city of Dis, mentioned by Dante! We were first conducted to the mines, the immense quantity of coal and iron produced by which rendered all this possible. Some idea of this quantity may be obtained from the fact that in the last five weeks 36,000 tons of coal have been dug out, sometimes 1500 tons in a day, and that all these coals are employed in the works. Close to this mine is that from which a similar quantity of ironstone is produced. The cost, of course, is enormous! The works employ about 6000 work-people daily, and the wages of these workmen, with food, &c., amounts to about 26,000l. a month! …

I was also much interested in standing at the double entrance to the shaft, and observing how, set in motion by a steam-engine, and conducted along a subterraneous railway, on the one side a row of empty waggons, and a number of workmen, with miners’ lamps, were conveyed into the mountains; whilst, on the other side, shortly after, a number of waggons loaded with ironstone and coal, and with other workmen, came out from the cavern. The carelessness with which the workmen acted, sufficed to show the influence of daily exposure to danger. Several of the men came out of the sloping shaft, quite without holding, and standing upright upon the rope which drew the waggons out of the centre of the mountain. The slightest inclination to either side, in the darkness of the cavern, would have been sufficient to precipitate the man from his position, and he would have been crushed to pieces by the next waggon. This carelessness is, however, not merely manifested in such exhibitions of skill, but is even shown in a similar manner in the interior. Hence, notwithstanding Davy’s safety lamp, accidents are continually occurring from cold damp. Only this morning three workmen were killed in this manner, in one of the workings.