Merthyr Tydfil in 1803 – part 1

From: The Scenery, Antiquities and Biography of South Wales, from material collected during two excursions in the year 1803. Volume 1, by Benjamin Heath Malkin (1807)

Pages 251-253:

After descending the mountain, my road lay to the left in the vale near Gelligaer, where the memorable battle was fought after Fitzhamon’s conquest which proved to the Normans, at their cost, how dearly the natives loved their Liberty and how deeply they resented its loss. The next deviation was up a steep ascent, winding round suddenly on a height that overlooks the Quakers Yard with all its romantic scenery. This is, on the whole, perhaps the most singular spot in the Vale of Taff. The Quakers Yard is now a burial ground belonging to that sect. It is a spot of ground enclosed by a wall, but without any kind of house or other shelter. This was for a long time the place where the original Catabaptists performed their worship; and even to this day, or till very lately, there are or have been, occasional meetings for divine service here among the Quakers. It is about 6 miles lower in the Vale and Merthyr Tydfil. Directly beyond it, on the curiously-contrived Turnpike road from Merthyr Tydfil to Cardiff, is a bridge over the Bargoed Taff River, just at its junction with the Taff; the banks of which have here acquired there woody character, while the valley on each side is choked up by mountains.

The road carried over a precipice, exhibits the eccentricities of nature in all their extent and variety. I have been informed that the direct journey from the Quakers Yard till within a mile or two of Merthyr Tydfil was over a continued range of mountainous and unrelieved barrenness. I determined therefore to take a circuitous route; and for that purpose, bent my steps, near the feeder to the canal, towards New Bridge, by which direction, at different times, I completely explored the richer part of this delicious vale. At the aqueduct, where the canal is carried over the river, an iron railroad for the present ends; and from the wharf at this place the canal is the only conveyance for heavy goods to Cardiff. The length of it, as far as it has already been completed, is about 10 miles but it was designed to have extended from Merthyr Tydfil to Cardiff; and it is said that one horse would have been able to draw 40 tons of iron the whole distance of 26 miles in one day. I understand, however, that it is not likely to be finished; and indeed it is much more necessary where it is now made, from the occasional want of water, than lower down, where the confluence of many and copious dreams affords and more certain supply to the canal.

The wonders of art in this neighbourhood almost rival those of nature. There are just here 18 locks on the canal in the space of one mile, 11 of which follow each other in such immediate succession, as to occupy only one quarter of that mile. After pursuing this interesting part of the road nearly as far as New Bridge, I returned over the aqueduct into the vale of Cynon or Aberdare.

To be continued……..