110 years ago today………
Here is how the event was reported in the Merthyr Express of 29 June 1912…
A New Cinema
Tag: Pontmorlais
Memories of Old Merthyr
We continue our serialisation of the memories of Merthyr in the 1830’s by an un-named correspondent to the Merthyr Express, courtesy of Michael Donovan.
There has not been much reference yet to Caedraw, nor can there be much recalled to describe. The Gas Works were erected here, a Mr Evans being the first manager, and a brother of his the deputy. There were two breweries near the end of the road joining Bridge Street, one owned by a Mr John Toop; the other, which was smaller, owned by Mr Anstie, who kept the shop in Pontmorlais previously. This Mr Anstie bought the property between the road in Caedraw and the Isle of Wight, and came to reside there after improving the buildings.
The basin tramroad was ordinarily used as a pedestrian thoroughfare, in fact many houses had no other way of approach. I cannot recall anyone ever being prevented from walking the tramroad, although it might not have always been judicious to do so on account of safety. Things are so altered now, and we are accustomed to the change, that it takes consideration to recall things quite decidedly. For instance, brakes to slacken the speed or stop conveyances were unknown. The ‘sprag’ was the only thing used, and these projected at variable distances from the wheels of the trams, if the trams were going fast – for they would occasionally run wild – it was a serious matter to be caught in any narrow part of the road. It was also a hazardous thing for the haulier to put them in or take them out, and many a limb as well as life has been lost by a slip.
As one instance of there being no other way of going to or coming from a residence on the Tramroad, somewhere behind the Morlais Castle Inn can be cited. It was the residence of Mr Roger Williams (I think it was his own property). He was a public functionary, but whether relieving officer or assistant overseer is not remembered now. If we went down the Tramroad towards Twynyrodyn, before coming to Professional Row we should see a door on the right hand. This is where a Mr Russell stayed. He was a brother of the Mr Russell who was the doctor of Dowlais, Penydarren and Plymouth Works at one time. He lived in the lowest of the three houses in Professional Row, and his surgery was at the back with public entrance from the Tramroad.
Old Mr Russell, his brother, and others attended the surgery, but the one very often attendant upon the patient was the brother, about whom I remember the remark that after enquiring as to symptoms he always gave two pills in a paper, and the patients were often (very often) so hurt, that the pills used to be thrown over the Tramroad wall into the field on the other side, whence they were collected to again be served out.
To be continued at a later date……
Commercial Break
Notes on the Merthyr Tydfil Tramroads – part 2
by Gwilym and John Griffiths
Cwm Cannaid Tramroad: We do not know when this tramroad was constructed. We would guess it was sometime around 1800-1814. Despite its name, the tramroad was built before the shaft of Cwm Cannaid Colliery was sunk. The track was shown clearly on the 1814 Ordnance Survey Map and on Robert Dawson’s 1832 Boundary Commission Map whereas the shafts of Cwm Cannaid Colliery were apparently sunk about 1845. The purpose of the tramroad was to relieve the inefficient old tub canal, or coal canal, sometimes called the Cyfarthfa Coal Canal, of the 1770s. The latter transported coal (and perhaps ironstone?) in two-ton tubs from levels (some suggested via dangerous leats) in Cwm Cannaid to Cyfarthfa Works: some say horse-drawn, others say hauled or pushed by men and women. The Cyfarthfa Coal Canal was closed around 1835, which gives an explanation of Cwm Cannaid Tramroad on Robert Dawson’s 1832 Boundary Commission Map.
The tramroad followed roughly the route of the old coal canal: the latter a twisting route, the former almost a straight line. It skirted Glyn Dyrys Ironstone Mine, a coal shaft below Lower Colliers Row, in front of Lower Colliers Row itself, Tir Wern Uchaf (where it crossed the canal twice), a link to Cwm y Glo Colliery and Ironstone Mine, Upper Colliers Row, Tir Heol Gerrig and hence to the coke ovens and yards above (to the west) of Cyfarthfa Works.
When Cwm Cannaid Pit was sunk in 1845, that became the terminus of the system. The 1901 Ordnance Survey Map named it ‘Cwm Pit Railway’, and the line linking it to ‘Gethin Railway’ was labelled ‘railway in course of construction’. We saw the remnants of these mines, canal and tramroad in the 1940s and 1950s, and often walked the old canal embankment, by then well wooded.
Again, industrial despoliation was reverting to nature: delicious wild strawberries on the old waste tipping, a nightingale singing by the disused and reed-covered canal reservoir, woodcock and common snipe, pied flycatchers and wood warblers, and numerous other birds; with wild orchids amongst the damp marshy vegetation with dragon-flies, damsel-flies, glow-worms and water-boatmen. We doubt if this still exists in the coniferous plantations which replaced them all in more recent years.
Dowlais Tramroad: This was constructed about 1792-93 to connect Dowlais Works with Pont y Storehouse near the Glamorgan Canal terminus, roughly near present-day Jackson’s Bridge. It gave Dowlais Works access to the then ‘recently’ constructed Glamorgan Canal. The route may well have followed initially the Morlais Quarry Tramroad from Dowlais via Gelli Faelog, keeping to the Gelli Faelog side of Nant Morlais. The 1793 extension from this tramroad is today represented by the main road and high pavement from Trevithick Street down to Pont Morlais and thence via the tunnel, formerly a bridge, into Bethesda Street to Jackson’s Bridge. Did the Glamorgan Canal Company pay the £1,100 for the construction of the tramroad (and Jackson’s Bridge) in lieu of the proposed linking canal from Merthyr Tudful to Dowlais?
Gethin Tramroad: This tramroad or railway linked Gethin Colliery (sunk between 1845 and 1849 and opened 1849) initially, and Castle Colliery later (1860s?), with Cyfarthfa Works, taking a route in between those of Cwm Cannaid Tramroad and Ynys Fach Tramroad. No tramroad was shown on the 1850 Tithe Map and Schedule. By 1886 the track left Castle Colliery, skirted the hillside west of the Glamorgan Canal between Furnace Row and Tir Pen Rhiw’r Onnen, through Gethin Colliery (with a link to pit-shaft No2), past Graig Cottage and a bridge over Nant Cannaid. At (the 1853) Cyfarthfa Crossing it curved northwestwards past Tir Wern Isaf and Tir Llwyn Celyn, looping under the 1868 Brecon and Merthyr Railway near Heol Gerrig, and thence to the coke yards.
By 1886 the route was upgraded to the GWR and Rhymney Railway as far as the Cyfarthfa Crossing. The 1876 six-inch Ordnance Survey Map showed the terminus for the ‘cwbs’ at the rear of Cyfarthfa Works. The 1901 Ordnance Survey Map called it ‘Gethin Railway’. Our grandfather used the railway to get to work at Castle Colliery, and we regularly used this route (then upgraded to a full railway) in the 1940s and 1950s on our daily journeys to and from school at Quakers Yard. One of us was on the last train to use this line before the viaduct between Quakers yard and Pont y Gwaith was found to be unsafe.
Gyrnos Quarry Tramroad: This was used to bring limestone from Gyrnos Quarry (Graig y Gyrnos) alongside Tâf Fechan, past the limekilns and coal yards, over Afon Tâf by Pont Cafnau to Cyfarthfa Works. We have no details of dates, but walked the route many times in the 1950s in search of dippers, kingfishers, grey wagtails and the rest. It was the first tramroad recorded in the 1805 list of John Jones and William Llywelyn: 1 mile 106 yards to Cyfarthfa Furnaces and just over 1¾ miles to the new Ynys Fach Furnaces. In view of the size of the quarry, it must have transported many tons of material.
The Old Merthyr Constables
From the Merthyr Telegraph 160 years ago today…..
Highway Robbery
From the Monmouthshire Merlin 145 years ago today….
How well do you know Merthyr? The answers
Here are the answers to the questions I posed you last week. How did you do?
- What was the name of St Tydfil’s father?
King Brychan Brycheiniog
- Who founded the Cyfarthfa Ironworks in 1765?
Anthony Bacon
- Who was Merthyr’s first Labour M.P.?
James Keir Hardie
- What was the name of the first chapel to be built in Merthyr town?
Ynysgau Chapel
- What was the name of the pub that Lord Nelson stayed in when he visited Merthyr in 1800?
The Star Inn in Caedraw
- Nixonville in Merthyr Vale is named after whom?
John Nixon, the founder of Merthyr Vale Colliery
- Who has ‘God Forgive Me’ inscribed on his grave?
Robert Thompson Crawshay
- Where was the Olympia Skating Rink?
In Pontmorlais, just further up than the Theatre Royal
- Which Merthyr-born boxer won the WBC World featherweight title in 1968?
Howard Winstone
- Where would you find St Matthias Church?
Treharris
- The Bwthyn Bach Inn is missing from the Old Merthyr Tydfil list of pubs, where was it situated?
At the corner of what was known as the Broad Pavement, opposite was the name given to a street built behind the Palace Cinema.
- Where was Tai Harri Blawd?
Behind the Theatre Royal and bordering the old Tramroad
- What is the area known as Daniel’s Waterloo?
The area now known as the Grove
- Where was the Merthyr Tydfil clay pipe factory?
In Vaughan Street, Caedraw
- What did the factory next to Factory Cottages make?
Factory Cottages were alongside the old Drill Hall and given this name as they adjoined a flannel factory.
- How did Storey Arms get its name?
The first landlord there was a Mr Storey
- Where was Pendwranfach?
A narrow street by the Fountain …… turn left at the bottom of the High Street
- What is the real name of the pub often called The Spite?
The Farmer’s Arms, Mountain Hare
- Who was Miss Florence Smithson and what building is she associated with?
A famous actress associated with the Theatre Royal
- Why was an area by St Tydfil’s Church named Lle Sais?
Its name is derived from the fact that most of the English people brought in to the area to work in the Penydarren Ironworks lived here
I remember that…..
by Laura Bray
1. The ‘top swings’ in Cyfarthfa Park.
2. Catching the bus to the ‘Ring Lamp’ stop.
3. Buying sweets from Weekes’ shop in Pontmorlais.
4. Depositing 2p pieces into the phone box outside Merthyr Railway Station, ringing for a lift home.
5. The old ironmongers in Glebeland Street where you could buy just two nails if that’s all you wanted.
Memories of Old Merthyr
We continue our serialisation of the memories of Merthyr in the 1830’s by an un-named correspondent to the Merthyr Express, courtesy of Michael Donovan.
Taking the Nantygwenith Road first, with the exception of one occupied by David Evans, the master carpenter at Cyfarthfa (father of the Thomas Evans whose brewery has been mentioned), there was not another right away up to the gatehouse of the Turnpike on the right hand side, but there were dwellings on the other (the left) side all the way, and persons who resided there who should be mentioned.
Before doing so, however, it may be proper to state what kind of scientific society met at the Dynevor Arms, and what was then called philosophical instruments, made by W. and S. Jones, of High Holborn, kept there in the meeting room. Amongst other things attempted was the formation of a duck, which it was reputed they nearly accomplished, but extravagancies aside I can from recollection say there were very good instruments there, one being a telescope of about five inches in diameter.
Notwithstanding much that was desirable for sanitary conditions, there was a good deal of intellectual activity, and if any exceeding strong temperance advocates, deride the statement he can be told of a somewhat analogous one held near Birmingham that was frequented by persons whose names are world known, to wit, James Watt, Priestley and the time of meeting as near as may be to others whose forethought went so far as to have the time of meeting as near as may be to full moon, and were called in consequence the Lunar Society. There are few of any offices that that do not today benefit from one or two of their meetings.
On the left, the corner house of the Aberdare and Nantygwenith Roads, a grocer’s shop was opened by Mr Beddoe, next was a “gin shop”, so called, subsequently kept by Mr Lewis Lewis, superintendent of the Dowlais Stables previously, and afterwards of Pontyrhun; a few cottages followed and then a road. It was up this, and on the first opening to the left the Rev David John, the Unitarian Minister, taught his pupils. He was, I think, a good Welsh scholar, but I am certain of him being a good mathematician. He Had three sons and one daughter, the eldest Mathew, some years after carrying on the iron foundry business in Bryant’s old brewery premises.
The upper corner of this road was the grocery establishment of a Mr Edward Roach. He was a fine powerful man, and they used to say that seeing a woman, with a child in her arms, pursued by a bull, he rushed out and boldly attacked it.
Next above was the Patriot Inn, kept by Mr William Howells. He had two daughters, the youngest of whom was wooed by Mr William Spiller, then travelling around the hills selling flour on behalf of himself and a Mr Browne. The flour was called “Spiller and Browne”. The latter name seems to have passed, but the former has developed into a ‘household word’ in the quality of their product, and extension of business at Cardiff. The firm Spiller and Browne was then at Bridgwater.
To be continued at a later date……
Merthyr Chapels: Pontmorlais Chapel
The next chapel we are going to look at was one of Merthyr’s oldest, largest and most important chapels – Pontmorlais Calvinistic Methodist Chapel.
In the late 18th Century a group of men began holding prayer meetings in the house of Mr John Davies just above the site of the chapel. As the group grew they moved to a house on the site of the Morlais Castle public house in Pontmorlais. The number of worshippers increased and in 1793 the congregation were in a position to build a small chapel which was called Pennsylvania.
In 1803 the first Methodist Revival took place and subsequently the congregation grew rapidly, and by 1805 a new chapel was built. Between 1805 and 1810 the chapel was also used as a school during the week. During this period, the chapel was considered to be one of the most important Calvinistic Methodist chapels in Wales, and attracted some of the most important preachers of the era.
The chapel was again extended in 1821 and following another revival in 1829 a very large new chapel was built behind the High Street, with access via a small courtyard between the houses built onto the chapel. The architect of the new chapel was the minister at the time, Rev Evan Harris (right).
In 1840 the chapel was renamed Pontmorlais Chapel. All the way through to the mid 20th Century, Pontmorlais remained one of the most important chapels in the town. Holding up to 1,500 people it was also used for many concerts, and the Calvinistic Methodist Cymanfa Ganu was held at the chapel on the first Monday in May from 1874 – the first Cymanfa Ganu to be held in Merthyr was at Pontmorlais Chapel.
By the early 1950’s the congregation had dwindled considerably and in 1954, the chapel closed.
After its closure, the building was taken over by the Blind Institute as a workshop until it was destroyed by fire in 1981. The site is now occupied by Voluntary Action Merthyr Tydfil.
