Tag: Cefn Coed

Consecrating the Jewish Cemetery

The article transcribed below appeared in the Merthyr Express 85 years ago today – 2 November 1935.

Consecration of New Cemetery at Cefn

The new extension of the Hebrew Cemetery at Cefn Coed was formally consecrated and declared open on Sunday in the presence of a large gathering.  The new section adjoins the old portion of the cemetery, which has been in existence upwards of 70 years or so, and the ground has been prepared and greatly improved by the inclusion of concrete paths and terraces overlooking the main road to Brecon. The ceremony was performed by the Rev. E. Bloom, the minister of the local Hebrew Congregation, who referred to the fulfilment of a very necessary want in the acquisition of the plot of land which was converted into the new portion of the cemetery.  He paid a tribute to the work of the committee, and especially to Mrs. Raina Grwsener (formerly of Treharris) who had handsomely subscribed towards the project and had thus helped them to realise their ambition.

Mrs. Grwsener, in declaring the place open, said she hoped the ground would not be used for many years. It was her pleasure to render this service to the community. Mr. Sol. Freedman presented Mrs. Grwsener with a silver trowel, suitably, inscribed, on behalf of the members of Merthyr Hebrew Congregation. A reception and tea followed at the Lesser Drill Hall. Mr. Sol. Freedman, who presided, was supported by the Rev. E. Bloom, Mr. Isaac Hamilton, Mr. E. M. Cohen, Mr. A. Moscovitch, Mr. B. Shelower, Mr. Harris Schwartz, and others. The Chairman made touching reference to the recent passing away of Mr. Hermann Gittlesohn, their honourable member and one of the founders of the congregation, whose demise they all greatly deplored.  The speaker called upon the audience to stand in memory of their departed friend and co-religionist. Mr. Freedman then paid a tribute to all those who had worked so well for the noble cause, and especially  mentioned Mr. A. Moscovitch, the president of the burial society, who had devoted a considerable amount  of his time towards the supervision of the work connected with the renovation of the new cemetery.

In responding to the toast of the visitors, Mr. Elkan, Pontypridd, said the Merthyr Congregation was, without doubt, the finest in South Wales.  They had an admirable leader in the Rev. E. Bloom, who had served them so faithfully for the past 35 years.  He hoped they would all continue to prosper. Responding, Mr Isaac Hamilton (treasurer) said they had an ideal congregation and felt proud of its members.  Mrs Grwsener had done the right thing in making her gifts during her lifetime, a matter which afforded gratification to the giver when one saw the fruits of one’s endeavours.

Mr. Harris Schwartz said that as one of the promoters of the new cemetery he felt delighted to witness the completion of their efforts.  Mr. Moscovitch and others also spoke.  Mr. G. A. Swallow proposed the vote of thanks to the ladies’ committee, who had worked so ably for the cause.

Merthyr’s Heritage Plaques: Moss Evans

by Keith Lewis-Jones

Plaque sited on the side wall of the Gwynne’s Arms, Maeswgwynne,
Cefn Coed, CF48 2PG

Arthur Mostyn (Moss) Evans, 1925-2002, was born in Cefn Coed, Merthyr, one of 12 children.

In 1940 he joined the Amalgamated Engineering Union while working at Joseph Lucas in Birmingham

In 1950 he moved to the Bakelite Factory in Birmingham and became a shop steward a year later. His rise in the Transport & General Worker‟s Union started in 1956 becoming Birmingham Regional Trade Group Secretary in 1960, the Engineering National Officer in 1966, National Secretary (Automotive Section) in 1969 and National Organiser in 1973.

He was elected General Secretary of the union in 1977 defeating 14 other candidates. He retired on ill health grounds in 1985 at the age of 58.

He served as a Labour Councillor in Kings Lynn & West Norfolk from 1991, also serving a term as Mayor.

From Cefn to the Café – Remembering Jane Freeman

Anyone over a certain age will fondly remember the long-running BBC comedy series ‘Last of the Summer Wine’. One of the longest serving and best remembered characters was the ferocious Ivy in the café, often bellowing ‘What the blood and stomach pills?’ before usually bashing Compo over the head with a tin tea-tray. The magnificent actress who turned, what could have been a one-dimensional character, into one the country’s most well-loved comedy creations was Jane Freeman.

Jane Freeman was born Shirley Ann Pithers in Brentford, Essex on 12 June 1935, to Arthur, a railway engineer, and Joan (née Dewhurst). Her father died in an accident on the London Underground when she was nine and, in 1945, she moved to Merthyr Tydfil when her mother married Russell Evans, a solicitor, and the family settled in Cefn-Coed, with the young Shirley taking her step-father’s surname and adopting Jane as her first name.

Having enjoyed acting in plays at Vaynor and Penderyn School (notably in Shakespeare’s ‘Twelfth Night’, playing the role of Malvolio!), she trained at the Cardiff College of Music & Drama (now the Royal Welsh College of Music & Drama).

The programme for a 1951 production of Oscar Wilde’s ‘The Importance of Being Earnest’ at Vaynor & Penderyn School. In the cast list is Jane Evans (Jane Freeman) as Lady Bracknell. Courtesy of http://www.alangeorge.co.uk/index.htm
A photograph from the production. Jane Freeman is unmistakable at the centre of the front row. Photo courtesy of http://www.alangeorge.co.uk/index.htm

After graduating in 1955, she moved to London before joining the Gloucestershire-based all-female Osiris Repertory Theatre touring company, changing her name to Jane Freeman. In her 18 months with Osiris, Jane played around 40 parts in roughly 1,000 performances.

In 1958 she joined the Arena Theatre, Sutton Coldfield, where she began to attract attention, and was seen as Margaret More in the inaugural production of the Welsh Theatre Company – Robert Bolt’s ‘A Man for All Seasons’, at the New Theatre, Cardiff in 1962.

Following repertory theatre in Dundee (1966-7), she joined Birmingham Rep (1967-78), where Michael Simpson arrived from the BBC to become its artistic director. They married in 1971 and Simpson returned to the BBC, eventually directing Freeman in two Play for Today productions – as a snooty seaside landlady in ‘The Fishing Party’ (1972), in which John Comer also appeared, and as the mother of Alan Bleasdale’s Liverpool schoolboy of the title in ‘Scully’s New Year’s Eve’ (1978).

In 1971 she was cast in the new BBC Comedy ‘Last of the Summer Wine’ opposite John Comer as Ivy and Sid –  owners of the local café. Appearing in the very first episode, she went on to appear in 274 further episodes of the series over 37 years – the only cast member besides Peter Sallis to appear throughout the entire run of the series.

John Comer and Jane Freeman and Sid and Ivy.

Although best known as Ivy, Jane made many other TV appearances, most notably in the first series of ‘Blackadder’ (the first series actually being called ‘The Black Adder’) as the peasant woman Tully Applebottom, who almost committed bigamy with Rowan Atkinson’s Prince Edmund, to spare him marriage to Miriam Margolyes’s Infanta; and also as Mrs Kimble in ‘Silas Marner’ in 1985.

Despite her television fame, theatre remained her first love. When television filming commitments allowed, she could be found playing a number of strong, usually northern, matriarchs in ‘Billy Liar’ (Nottingham Playhouse, 1980), touring productions of J.B. Priestley’s ‘When We Are Married’, Michael Frayn’s ‘Noises Off’ (1987) and Johnnie Mortimer and Brian Cooke’s ‘Situation Comedy’ (1989).

She scored a personal success as the sharp-tongued Emma Hornett (a role made famous by Peggy Mount) in Philip King and Falkland Carey’s ‘Sailor Beware!’ at the Lyric, Hammersmith (1991), subsequently touring with it in 1992 and 1993. Later theatre appearances included Pam Gems’ ‘Deborah’s Daughter’ (Library -Theatre, Manchester, 1994) and tours of William Ash’s adaptation of Emily Bronte’s ‘Wuthering Height’s in 1995 and again in 1998.

After her husband Michael’s death in 2007, Jane continued to work, despite suffering a neurological condition that affected her hands and feet, and she passed away after a battle with cancer on 9 March 2017.

Cyfarthfa Fountain

The article transcribed below appeared in the Merthyr Express 100 years ago today…

Fountain at Cyfarthfa Park

FORMAL PRESENTATION BY COL. J. J. JONES

On Tuesday afternoon the handsome water fountain presented to Cyfarthfa Park by Col. J. J. Jones, J.P., Cefn Coed, and his family, was formally presented to the Borough. The weather was exceedingly inclement, and during the whole of the interesting ceremony rain fell heavily, especially when Miss Jones turned on the water.

The fountain is planned with a circular basin 16ft. diameter, from the centre of which rises a circular pedestal 2ft. 6in. in diameter surmounted by three figures carrying a cornucopia, from which a jet of water issues.  Around the base of the pedestal are carved dolphins and birds from the mouths of which sprays issue. Four winged cherubs riding on dolphins are placed around the basin, sprays issuing from the dolphins’ mouths.  From the water line to the top of the pedestal is 9ft. 10in. A very pretty effect is produced when the fountain is in full play. The work has been carried out in Clipsham stone, a similar stone being used on most of the Oxford colleges.

The work has been executed by the well-known firm, Messrs. Martyn and Co., of Cheltenham. The architects were Messrs. Johnson and Richards, of Merthyr. The fountain work was done by Mr. E. P. Davies, builder, Dowlais.

The Mayor called upon Col. Jones to present the fountain to the park and to the inhabitants of the Borough.

Col. J. J. Jones, referring to the pouring rain, facetiously remarked that he was afraid that the people would be of the opinion that the fountain was a superfluity which they might very well do without. (Laughter.) For some years past his sister-in-law Mrs Jones, his nieces and himself had thought of presenting something useful to the Borough, and their chance fell upon this fountain. They thought that looking at the long connection of the family with Cyfarthfa, that it would be most appropriate to place the fountain in Cyfarthfa Park. (Applause.) He was glad they had the consent of the Corporation to erect it there, and it was with great pleasure that he handed the fountain to the town. (Hear, hear.) He was very glad indeed to have had the great skill and experience of Mr. Richards, the architect, to guide them in selection of the design, and also to carry out the work. He devoted a great deal of time and attention to do it, and he was sorry that an engagement in London prevented Mr. Richards from being present at that ceremony. The firm who undertook the work were to be congratulated upon its neat design and beauty. Col. Jones referred to the fact that during the preparation of the fountain his sister-in-law, Mrs. Jones, had passed away, and Mrs Jones was, unfortunately, unable to attend that day. He therefore, had pleasure in presenting the fountain to the people, and a thing of beauty in the beautiful park. (Applause.)

Councillor Dd Jones, Chairman of the Parks Committee, formally accepted the gift on behalf of the Corporation and the inhabitants of Merthyr. He said he was glad to find they had such men as Col. Jones come forward and help to beautify the park and increase the pleasure of the people. He trusted others would follow in his footsteps.  (Applause.)

Miss Olive Jones then, amid applause, turned on the water.

At this stage the Mayor said he regretted the absence of Mr. H. Seymour Berry J.P., who had written to say that he was quite unable to fulfil his promise to attend and take part in that interesting function.

His Worship the Mayor moved a hearty vote of thanks to Col. Jones and his family for their generous gift to the townspeople, and said the people of Cefn, who were outside the Borough, would also be able to appreciate it when they visited the park. The name of Col. Jones’ family would now be enrolled in the history of the Borough, and whenever the present and future generations inspected the fountain, they would always refer with pride to the family who were so well known at Cefn.  (Hear, hear.)

Councillor Parry, in seconding the vote, said he appreciated the fountain because it was so near the Castle School, and the scholars would be able to admire the work of the sculptor. (Hear, hear.) It would be an incentive to the scholars to make progress in art, and visitors would, he was sure, also appreciate it very much. The inhabitants of Merthyr would always be grateful to Col. Jones and his family for such a handsome gift.  (Applause.)

The proposition was carried with acclamation, and Col. Jones having responded in a few, well-chosen words, an interesting ceremony in the history of the Borough concluded.

Many thanks to Tracy Barnard for transcribing this article.

Cyfarthfa Park Fountain in the 1920s. Photo courtesy of http://www.alangeorge.co.uk/index.htm

Merthyr Memories: Cyfarthfa School Days

by Barrie Jones

Of the many benefits that came to post war children such as myself the most important for me was my passing the Eleven Plus (11+) thus gaining entry to Cyfarthfa Castle Grammar School in September 1960.  Before the ‘Castle’, I attended St. Mary’s Roman Catholic School in Court Street, known to us boys as the “bottom of the town”.  St Mary’s was a small school and boys were taught separately from the girls and even playtimes were held apart.  To this day I can recall the name of only one girl who attended the school during my four years there.  The boy’s school was on the upper floor with the girls occupying the ground floor.  There were only three classrooms on the upper floor, so depending on pupil numbers some doubling up of age groups was necessary.  My age group attended Mr. Dennis Hennessey’s class for the final two years.

St Mary’s 3rd and 4th year boys circa 1959 with Bede Wills our headmaster in his final year before his retirement.

I remember sitting some of the 11+ test papers in the build up towards the final sitting but I cannot remember the final important test.  On the day of the result Mr Cotter, our new Headmaster in that year, called some of us out to the school hallway to tell us we had passed.  We all returned to the classroom to thank Mr. Hennessey for getting us through.  I recall that two boys who had joined our class in the final year to sit their 12+, passed for Quaker’s Yard Grammar School, two from Cefn Coed went on to Vaynor and Penderyn Grammar School, three others went to the County Grammar School, and four of us went to the Castle.  Not a bad number for a small school and I am certain that ‘downstairs’ far more girls than us boys passed.

St Mary’s School, Court Street. Photo courtesy of http://www.alangeorge.co.uk/index.htm

 

Today, pupils attending a new comprehensive school have some prior knowledge of their new school through school open days and primary/comprehensive school liaison.  In my day the first taste of a new school was on that anxious first day of term.  Three of us Castle boys lived in Twynyrodyn, Michael Long in Walter’s Terrace, and Alan Clifford and I on the Keir Hardie Estate, so most weekday afternoons after school we would make the long trek up Twyn Hill together.  After the 11+ result we had more to talk about, and one afternoon Alan came up with an idea on how we could see our new school before our first day of term.  An aunt of his was a cleaner at the Castle and she offered to take us around the school in the summer holidays.  So one morning in August we met up by Penuel Chapel on the Twyn Hill and walked across town to his aunt’s house on the Grawen and from there we were taken up to the school.

My first impression of the school was how big it was! Such long corridors and so many classrooms, how would I ever find my way around?  The place was busy with workmen everywhere and two new classrooms were being built on the ground floor in what I later discovered was the boy’s old assembly hall.  A new gymnasium had been opened in April 1959 on the site of the old ruined coach house and it doubled up as the boy’s new assembly hall.  The new class rooms were necessary to accommodate the impact of the post war baby boom.  The Headmaster, W. Lloyd Williams, mentioned the increase in pupil numbers in his 1958/59 School report to the Education Committee calling it a bulge.  It was a bulge that would last a long time.  Entry numbers continued to increase each year so that by September 1960 the pupil number was 738,405 girls and 333 boys.  More girls than boys were entering each year, in my year (1960) there was even a class 2G for girls only!

On my first day at the ‘Castle’ I found out that my form room 2A was one of the very new classrooms I saw being built on the day of our special tour.  My Form Master, Mr. Alan James Hill (Religious Education), was new to the school also. The Form Master of the adjoining new classroom, form room 2B, was Mr. Vincent Lee, (English), he was a new starter also, but he had the advantage of being a former pupil of the school.  Similar to St Mary’s school we boys were separated from the girls for assembly and play times, we having sole use of the downstairs while the girls occupied the floor above.  What I was not prepared for was sharing lessons with girls, something I hadn’t experienced since leaving the Roman Catholic infant’s school in Morgantown.

Unlike the day of our private tour the School was so full and busy with pupils streaming through the corridors in between lessons shepherded by senior boys, the Prefects.  Surely these were men who towered over us with beard stubble on their chins!  It would take quite a while to settle in but those six years would soon fly by and in my final two years I to would be shepherding pupils in between lessons but with not so much beard stubble.

Merthyr’s Chapels: Twynyrodyn Chapel

The next chapel we are going to look at is a chapel that has been somewhat forgotten – Twynyrodyn Unitarian Chapel.

When Rev T B Evans was appointed as minister at Ynysgau, he was considered far too conservative by the Arminian members of the congregation, and they lodged a protest. The matter was taken to court, but the Arminians lost their appeal and left Ynysgau.

In 1814 they began meeting in a room at the Patriot Inn near Ynysgau with Rev Thomas Evans taking the services. In the following few years, discussions were held regarding the opening of a Unitarian Chapel in Merthyr.

In 1820, therefore, when the congregation was forced to leave the Patriot Inn, a committee was appointed and within a year, Twynyrodyn Unitarian Chapel was opened in Court Street, and Rev David Rees was appointed as the first minister there.

After Rev Rees left in 1823, Rev David John became minister in 1826. By the 1840’s David John began expressing sympathy for the Chartist Movement and the congregation, not comfortable with his views began to leave the chapel. Due to the severe drop in the congregation, the chapel closed in 1847. Rev John thus left the chapel, but the following year, the chapel reopened and new ministers were appointed.

By the beginning of the 20th Century the old chapel was becoming obsolete and the congregation decided that they should build a new chapel. It was decided to build the new chapel in Lower Thomas Street, and the architect chosen was Mr A E Johnson who designed a very opulent, striking gothic building. With the building of the new chapel, Twynyrodyn Chapel became vacant until it was bought and became the Gospel Hall.

The chapel was demolished in 1969 during the redevelopment of the town.

The name plaque from Twynyrodyn Chapel which is now located at Hen-dy-Cwrdd Chapel in Cefn-Coed.

The Execution of Dick Tamar

In our last but one post (http://www.merthyr-history.com/?p=3174), mention was made of the arrest of Dick Tamar for the murder of his mother. Below, courtesy of Carl Llewellyn, is a transcription of the report of his confession and execution, that appeared in The Cambrian on 30 July 1842.

In a Second Edition of our last number, we published a report of the Execution and Confession of Richard Edwards, alias Dick Tamar, who at the last Assizes for this County was found guilty of the Murder of his Mother, Tamar Edwards. We this week republish the same for the information of our distant readers: –

This atrocious Criminal was executed at Cardiff this morning (Saturday). The convict was visited on Friday night by the Rev. Mr. Stacey, who remained with him for several hours. He seemed to be perfectly resigned to his fate, and frequently offered up prayers to the throne of grace for mercy in the last hour. We understand that several of the Dissenting ministers of Cardiff applied for permission to visit the wretched man, but that he declined seeing any spiritual teacher except the Reverend Chaplain, whose incessant endeavors to bring the poor creature to a proper sense of his situation, are beyond all praise.

Tamar slept soundly after the Reverend Chaplain left him. At twelve o’clock be awoke and left his bed. He expressed himself as being perfectly easy, and appeared firm and collected. At an early hour this morning (Saturday) crowds assembled round the goal, which gradually increased to about eleven thousand persons. At the dawn of day, the worthy Chaplain visited Tamar. Shortly before six o’clock, he asked for tea and bread and butter, and smoked a pipe with apparent unconcern. He observed to the Governor about this time that he was in “very good spirits”.

The Sheriff arrived at the goal at half-past seven in the morning. Edwards was then engaged in prayer with the Chaplain. Shortly before eight o’clock the Sheriff, accompanied by the officers of justice, proceeded to the condemned cell, and formally demanded the body of its miserable inhabitant. Having taken leave of the Chaplain, Edwards was placed under the hands of the executioner, who pinioned him in the cell. Dick repeatedly protested his innocence he underwent the terrible operation with remarkable firmness. The mournful procession then moved down the pathway in front of the Governor’s House, the Chaplain reading portions of the Burial Service. The convict did not show any fear, he wept slightly. Assisted by two turnkeys, he mounted the scaffold, on which he stood with the utmost firmness. Just prior to the rope being placed round his neck he said, “Hear me, I have been guilty of every crime except murder and thieving.” The fatal knot was then tied, and the cap drawn over the criminal’s face, not a muscle quivered – the bolt was then withdrawn, and Dick Tamar after one or two struggles ceased to exist. He did not appear to suffer much.

The body of the criminal was suspended for an hour, and then cut down. Several medical gentlemen were present for the purpose of taking a cast from the head.

Thus, died the Merthyr murderer whose name and crimes will be long remembered.

At the convict’s urgent request, the Holy Communion was administered him. On being asked how he felt, he said, “I have confidence, and hold fast in God’s mercy to me.” He frequently repeated the following verses, which he had committed at some previous time, to memory:-

Mae’r dydd bron myned heibio,
Mae’r haul bron myned lawr,
Mae’n amser ninnau’n tynu
Tua thragywyddoldeb mawr.
Mi af o flaen yr Orsedd,
Er dued yw fy lliw,
Pwv wyr na cha’i drugaredd,
Un rhyfedd iawn yw Duw.
O Arglwydd cladd fy meiau
Cyn fy nghladdu i,
Mewn eigion mor o angof
Sydd yn dy gariad di.
Ni alla’i ddim gwynebu,
Dydd y farn sy’ ddod,
Os na fydd claddu beiau
Cyn hynny wedi bod.

The following is a translation of the above:- “The day is nearly gone, the sun is nearly setting, and our time is drawing towards Eternity. I shall go before the judgement seat, though my crimes are so black; and who knows but that I shall obtain mercy, for God is wonderingly gracious. Oh! Lord, bury my sins before I shall be buried in the depths of Thy love; for I cannot face the day of Judgment, which is to come, unless my sins are buried before that lakes place”.

CONFESSION OF RICHARD EDWARDS.

In the early part of the week, the Culprit made the following statement to the Chaplain:-

“I was not alone when my mother came by her death There were three presents beside me. My child (10 months old), was in bed in the room. My mother died on Thursday night. When dead, two women placed my mother in bed beside my little boy, where the corpse remained until the Monday night following. The two other persons present, beside me and my wife, when my mother died, were the nearest relations of Peggy (my wife). Peggy and the other person had been in the womb of the other. These three persons told my father-in-law and my mother-in-law’s sister, that they had passed that night in Cefn Coed Cymmer. I gave my mother a blow about the jaw, because Peggy cried out that my mother was beating her. My mother fell down under my blow.

Peggy, her mother, and brother then laid hold on my mother. My mother did not speak; she groaned for some time. I saw Peggy and the other two squeezing her throat until she ceased groaning. I was in liquor: the three others were not. This happened about 12 or 1 o’clock, I cannot tell exactly, for there was no clock or watch there. And now, if Peggy had been allowed to be examined by me in the Hall, I would have made all this known then. Peggy asked me to bury her. I said I would not, I would leave her there, for I was afraid to be seen. I told them they had killed my mother. They begged me to keep everything secret. We all remained in the house till the dawn of day. I then went up to Dowlais, and the others returned home (to my father-in-law’s, as they say) and told their story about being at night at Coed y Cymmer.

I met my wife again about six o’clock the evening of the following Monday, at her aunt’s house, at Cae Draw (Jane Phillips’s) and we went together, the child in her arms, to my mother’s house. My wife placed the child in the opposite side of the bed to where my mother’s body was lying. We then together dragged the corpse out, and placed it under the bed. We continued to live in the house dining the rest of the week sleeping five nights in the bed under which the corpse lay! I was full of anxiety all the week, and on Saturday I started off the day my mother’s body was discovered, leaving my wife in my mother’s house. I was absent from Saturday until the following Wednesday, when I was apprehended in the Cast-House at Dyffryn, and wandering about.

I tell the best truth – the truth I should tell in the presence of God, where I shall he next Saturday – to you now. My blow did not kill my mother, for she groaned afterwards. Her death was caused by their meddling and scuffling with her on the ground. I know not exactly ill what manner. I mean Peggy, and her mother, and brother was scuffling with her. Neither of these three charged me at this time with having killed my mother. This is all true as I shall answer to God. I know nothing of the death of any other human being, male or female. If I did, I should confess it now, having gone so far. But I am guilty of every other sin or crime, excepting theft or murder. And now I have no more to say, having told the whole truth, and my heart is already feeling light. I began to feel lighter yesterday, when I determined and promised you to confess everything”.

The mark X of RICHARD EDWARDS

The whole of the foregoing statement was read over in Welsh by Mr. Stacey, and explained to Richard Edwards, and signed with the mark by him in my presence, this 18th day of July 1842.

JNO. B. WOODS,
Governor of the County Gaol

Memories of Old Merthyr

Whilst looking through back issues of the Merthyr Express, local historian Michael Donovan came across a remarkable feature which ran across several editions of the newspaper in 1901. The article concerns  reminiscences of Merthyr dating back to the 1830’s. Unfortunately, there is no indication who the person who wrote these memories is. Michael has passed copies of these articles on to me to feature on this blog. I will post extracts periodically, starting with the transcription below.

Merthyr Tydfil, erstwhile the metropolis of the iron manufacture, although that proud distinction no longer applies, is yet progressing and prosperous. Being able to recall it as was so many years ago, it is my intention to describe things that can be remembered, and to say in a gossiping garrulous manner what may instruct and amuse the present generation.

I think it was in 1834 I first saw Merthyr, coming by coach from Cardiff. The impression upon me was strange, for until then all ideas of existence had been gathered in a city, and the transition from such to a long, straggling village was very great. From Cardiff one set of horses ran to the Bridgewater Arms, and another on to Merthyr. The starting place in Cardiff was the Angel Hotel, which stood about the position of the Bute Estate Offices at the present, and the finish was at the Castle Hotel, or the booking office which was adjoining it on the Pontmorlais side. The coach stopped at the Bush Hotel to set down some passengers, and unless memory plays me false, the coachman’s name was Howells.

The Castle Hotel in Merthyr in the mid 1800’s

There was a great dearth of houses. Anything except workmen’s cottages were very few, and, as a rule, occupied by their owners. Just call to mind what Merthyr would be without Thomastown and Twynyrodyn, the site of the present Market-house and its surrounding streets a field, a field where the present station is (Cae Gwyn), a market garden where the lower part of the station yard is, no water except what could be had from a well here and there, no drainage, no police, and I almost think no gas works.

Further afield, Troedyrhiw had few houses, Pontyrhun was not, except a pumping engine and residence for the attendant. His name was Gibbons, and the engine supplied the Glamorganshire Canal from the river. Not above a dozen houses in Abercanaid; and as for Cefn, if you could find a cottage to spare, provided any means were used to come to Merthyr, no less than three turnpike gates would have to be passed through, to two of which a toll would be paid; and if, instead of turning round to enter the ‘village’, anyone went a short distance up the road to Penydarren, another toll would be demanded.

The old Penydarren Toll House (front) at the bottom of The Avenue. Photo courtesy of http://www.alangeorge.co.uk/index.htm

And yet with these conditions and surroundings –

“Content could spread a charm,
Redress the place, and all its faults disarm.”

To be continued at a later date…..

The Holm Oak in Bethesda Street

by Clive Thomas

It was different when it was planted I suppose, whenever that was. Now it stands near a modern, regulated cross roads dedicated to ensuring the smooth running of traffic from one side of the town to the other. You see only a few pedestrians here and vehicle owners drive past, or sometimes frustrated, are required to halt and give their attention to the traffic lights. It does have some other green company now though from more recently Council-planted shrubs and small trees, but for many years it would have stood somewhat incongruously alone, alongside a very busy roadway. Its age is difficult to guess but it must certainly have been witness to many changes in the surrounding area. It stands sentinel with a strangely oriented boxer’s statue and the small but colourful memorial to a demolished chapel which only hint at the area’s rich heritage.

Aerial photograph of Bethesda Street. The Holm Oak can be seen prominently in the centre of the photograph, with Bethesda Chapel to the right and Abermorlais School at the bottom right. Photo courtesy of the Alan George archive.

This thoroughfare was originally called Jackson’s Street, after the contractor who was commissioned in 1793 by the Dowlais Ironworks to build the stone arched bridge which still straddles the River Taff nearby. Although giving the rapidly increasing population of Georgetown and Heolgerrig, an alternative means of crossing the river from the more famous Iron Bridge, this bridge’s main purpose was to carry the tram road from the Dowlais Works to the canal warehouse and wharf on the Glamorganshire Canal. The tramroad would remain a vital link for the Dowlais Company for many years, and thousands of tons of iron would have been carried this way by teams of horse drawn wagons. As the town developed and more cottages built, junctions were created here, with Quarry Row leading into the riverside community of Caepantywyll and the Vulcan Road climbing the slope to Brewery Street and Sunnybank. Towards Pontmorlais, Bethesda Chapel had been built in 1811 and its name would eventually replace that of Mr. Jackson. Over a period of years, the area became overlooked by the tip of furnace waste from the Penydarren Ironworks, which continued to grow towards the river for most of the first half of the nineteenth century. It was between this British Tip, Jackson’s Bridge and the Taff that the notorious area of slum dwellings called ‘China’ would grow up.

Bethesda Street in 1967. The Holm Oak is clearly visible. Photo courtesy of the Alan George archive.

In the 1970’s however, great changes were taking place hereabouts. The re-configuration of the road system and the construction of a new Taff bridge required the demolition of many adjacent houses. Lawn Terrace, Garden Street, Paynters Terrace, along with The Old Tanyard Inn and Bethesda Chapel all disappeared. The removal of a substantial portion of the British Tip meant that whole area underwent considerable change.  Surprisingly and against all odds, the tree survived and remained healthy. As a result of representations from the Merthyr and District Naturalists’ Society, whose members became concerned about its survival, it was made the subject of a Tree Preservation Order under the 1974 Wildlife and Countryside Act.

Bethesda Street from the British Tip in 1989. The Holm Oak stands proud at the centre of the photograph. Courtesy of Clive Thomas

Quercus ilex, the Holm Oak belongs in Mediterranean climes and unlike our more familiar Sessile (Qercuspetraea) and Pedunculate (Quercusrobur) species, it is evergreen. Holm is the ancient English name for holly bush and it is indeed so like a holly that it is often mistaken for one. Its sombre evergreen foliage casts a very dense shade that nothing can grow beneath it and reflects the climatic conditions found in its native lands. There, the winter is rainy but fairly warm, while summers are dry and hot so thick waxy foliage is required to check undue loss of moisture. The tree is also unusual amongst the oaks in that its acorns take two years to mature. The species was first introduced into Britain in the sixteenth century at Mamhead Park, Devon and a large population is to be found on the Isle of Wight. It has naturalised in a number of areas of southern Britain.

One can only speculate at how it might have arrived in Merthyr Tydfil. The fairly close proximity of Cyfarthfa Park might offer one explanation. Several exotic species were imported by the Crawshay Family to enhance the landscaped parkland which surrounded their newly built gothic home. There are numerous Turkey Oaks (Quercuscerrris) on the banks of the Taf-Fechan near Cefn Coed which might have had their origins within the confines of the park. It is possible that this tree might have arrived as part of a consignment of saplings or perhaps even grown from a single acorn. Ironically now however, the species is thought to damage aspects of biodiversity in this country and is listed as an alien invader. Despite our own specimen’s somewhat anomalous existence, I hope it remains in situ for many more years.

The Holm Oak in February 2019