We continue our serialisation of the memories of Merthyr in the 1830’s by an un-named correspondent to the Merthyr Express, courtesy of Michael Donovan.
To return to the coach journey, the Bridgewater Arms was then kept by Mr George Roach, who afterwards move to the Castle at Merthyr,and after the change of horses they came to Quakers’ Yard. Here a slight halt was made, it might have been put down to kindness towards the animals, but the hostelry also supplied refreshments for the inner man. Whatever may be the reason, a long and steep hill had then to be ascended. After passing Pantannas the ascent modified, and on arriving at Nantddu turnpike, the pace could be again increased.
The Nantddu Turnpike (or Tollbooth) in Edwardsville. Courtesy of the Alan George Archive
A run of about two miles after this brought us to a pleasant cottage on the right hand side, owned and occupied by a Mr Stephens, and the Mount Pleasant Public House, kept by John Griffiths, who afterwards moved to the Star opposite the Old Church in High Street, was close by on the other side of the road.
The drive through the woods up to Troedyrhiw was a pleasant one. The road just before entering Troedyrhiw has been altered a little for the making of the Taff Vale Railway, and after passing Troedyrhiw for about 1½ miles the road was subsequently diverted by Mr Anthony Hill. After crossing the line of the railroad forming the connection at present between the Taff Vale Railway and the South Duffryn Coal Pits, it kept to the east of the present road, passing close in front of Duffryn Cottage, the east end of Taibach and Pentrebach Rows, through what was part of the Forge Yard, then past Pentrebach House (where I believe Mr Probert now resides), and came out at a little above Plymouth Lodge.
A drawing of the Plymouth Lodge in the 1820’s. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive
From here there has not been any deviation of route, but until the Britannia Public House on the right-hand side, there was not a single cottage on either side. There was a bridge over the road for the conveying of mine rubbish between the Dowlais Branch Bridge and the Britannia similar to one passed under at Pencaebach. About a hundred yards on towards the High Street, and on the other side of the road stood the Bell, and adjoining the Bell was the Plymouth Tollgate. On the opposite side of the road, but just before coming to the Bell there was an open space to the town road that was used as place where coal was delivered; which with some others will be alluded to to exemplify the arrangements at the time.
After coming through the Plymouth gate there were cottages on both sides until the Plymouth watercourse came so close to the road as to prevent their being built on the left hand. Where the Taff Station was at the opening of the railway and for years afterwards, there was nothing but rubbish tips, but they were not high, and the road with a ford through the river went from Plymouth Street across by Rhydycar. Perhaps this was the very Rhyd (a ford), but the place called Rhydycar was on the side of the canal bank, a house and mine pit with a winding engine. It was doubtless a parish road for Mr Bruce, the grandfather of the present Lord Aberdare, when Stipendiary of Merthyr, passed that way home to his residence in Mountain Ash.
A section of the remarkable 1836 map of Merthyr by John Wood showing the Plymouth Street area as mentioned in this article.
In the latest post in our ongoing series we have a couple of photographs of the area just outside the gates of St Tydfil’s Church.
In the first photograph, taken in the early 1900’s we can clearly see the famous Star Inn, where Admiral Lord Nelson and Lady Hamilton stayed when they visited Cyfarthfa Works in 1800.
Merthyr Tydfil had a long struggle to achieve a Charter of Incorporation.
As early as 1837 this was considered to be worth applying for, but there was opposition from the Ironmasters. During the failed Incorporation Inquiry of 1897, the Carmarthen Arms and the Bluebell Inn were satirically referred to as being a ‘Throttle Valve’, blocking the important flow of traffic to and from Cardiff into the centre of the town.
A map of the Caedraw area of Merthyr from 1875. The ‘Throttle Valve’ is the block of buildings in the middle of the road just below St Tydfil’s ChurchA photograph from 1897 showing the Carmarthen Arms and the Bluebell Inn
Before Merthyr Tydfil again applied for the Royal Charter it was felt that a number of crucial public improvements had to be made and that the ‘ThrottleValve’, was an obstruction which must be removed to improve traffic access to the town.
A more detailed view of the ‘Throttle Valve’
In 1903 the Merthyr Tydfil General Purposes Committee began negotiations with Mr Gomer Thomas for the proposed acquisition of the two large public houses at the lower part of the High Street. This block of buildings, known as the ‘ThrottleValve’ was acquired by the Urban District Council from Messrs. Thomas Brothers, for the purpose of widening the roadway at that spot.
The photograph below shows Carmarthen Arms and the Bluebell Inn actually in the process of being pulled down. There are so many people in the photograph because on the morning of the 21 May 1904, prior to the final stage in the demolition, a large number of townspeople assembled in the neighbourhood of the doomed pile to have their picture taken next to this local landmark.
The graveyard of the Old Parish Church of St Tydfil was also reduced in size to widen the road and many graves were disturbed for reburial in Cefn Coed Cemetery. These measures proved to be highly successful in the long term; after several abortive attempts, in 1905 the Town was at last successful in obtaining the important Royal Charter.
In 1906, the ‘Fountain’ (see http://www.merthyr-history.com/?p=720) was erected on the site of the ‘Throttle Valve’, and in 1908 Merthyr Tydfil was granted County Borough Status.
Below is a newspaper cutting about the demolition of the ‘Throttle Valve’.
by Peter Garwood (courtesy of the Welsh Centre for International Affairs)
In November 1938 Minnie James was thrust into the limelight when Lord David Davies decided that he would like to have a Welsh mother who had lost sons in the Great War to open the Welsh National Temple of Peace and Health on behalf of all mothers who had lost sons.
Minnie James from a Movietone news film about the opening of the National Temple of Peace.
But who was Minnie James? Peter Garwood, Wales for Peace volunteer, has been trawling through the archives to find out more.
Minnie James was born as Minnie Annie Elizabeth Watkins on 3rd October 1866 at Merthyr Tydfil.
Minnie Watkins married William James, a bachelor, age 23 on 1st January 1891, at the Parish Church in the Parish of Merthyr Tydfil, Glamorgan. The 1911 census shows the family living in a seven roomed house, 8 Cross Francis Street, Dowlais. William is working as a Clerk, Minnie has no listed occupation. The parents have been married for 20 years and have had eight children, six of whom are still alive. David is 19 and single and working as a Draughtsman, John is age 16, single and working as a Apprentice Fitter, Thomas is still in school. There are two new children: Winifred James age 7 born Merthyr and William James , age 1 born Dowlais. The family are sufficiently well off to have a General Servant, one Elizabeth A. Murphy, age 22, a single woman, born Dowlais.
Two children had died:
Elizabeth age 2 months who died and was buried 28th September 1901 at Merthyr Tydfil Council Cemetery Section.
Gwladys age 7, who died and was buried 6th March 1907 at Merthyr Tydfil Council Cemetery Section.
1914-1918: the impact of war on the James family
In 1914 the Great War broke out and men were quick to enlist. Minnie’s first son, David James joined the Welsh Guards, enlisting at Merthyr. He entered the theatre of war on 17th August 1915 in France. He was killed in action on 25th September 1916, age 24.
Like many men who died in the conflict of 1914-1918, his body was never identified and he is named on the Thiepval Memorial. He was awarded the British Victory and War medal along with the 1915 Star. His death was reported in the Western Mail on 13th October 1916.
The war ended in November 1918 but her second son Thomas had joined the 13th Welsh Regiment and had been wounded in France dying from wounds, age 21, on Christmas Day 1918. He was awarded the British Victory and War medal.
Her third son James, (known as Jack) had joined the Royal Welch Fusiliers and entered the theatre of war on 1st December 1915. He was wounded during the war, and awarded the British Victory and War medal along with the 1915 Star and the Silver War Badge for wounds. He was discharged on 28th January 1919.
However, he died on 23rd June 1920 at 8 Cross Francis Street, age 24 with his father present, eighteen months after his brother Thomas. His death certificate records the fact that the cause of death was “General Tuberculosis”. He was buried on 26th June 1920 at Merthyr Tydfil Council Cemetery, Pant.
All three sons who died in the Great War are commemorated by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission.
Minnie’s husband William James died at the age of 68, he had served as a Special Constable in the Great War and was buried on 20th November 1936 at Merthyr Tydfil Council Cemetery, Pant.
Further to the post on 25 April this year, there seems to be more problems with the graves at St Tydfil’s Church, five years after the previous report…..
The disturbing article transcribed below appeared in The Weekly Mail 115 years ago today, on 25 April 1903:
MERTHYR CHURCHYARD. PROPOSED REMOVAL OF 2,000 BODIES.
At the annual meeting of the Merthyr Urban District Council on Wednesday, the rector and Dr. W. W. Jones, churchwardens, attended as a deputation to ask that the council should withdraw that portion of the Bill they are promoting in Parliament which proposes to take in part of the parish churchyard for the widening of the lower part of High Street.
The Rector pointed out that it would be abhorrent to many families to have the remains of buried relatives disturbed, and indicated an alternative scheme whereby the widening could be effected by the removal of certain houses on the other side of the road.
Dr. Jones mentioned the startling fact that the scheme of the council in its present form would necessitate the removal of over 2,000 bodies. After some discussion upon the retirement of the deputation it was determined to adhere to the Bill.
The next chapel in our series is Wesley Chapel in Pontmorlais.
In 1790 Samuel Homfray, owner of the Penydarren Ironworks introduced a new process for making iron and needed to send to Yorkshire and Staffordshire for men to help carry out this new process.
The new workers were followers of John Wesley’s doctrines, and so started their own cause, meeting at their cottages near St Tydfil’s Church.
As the cause increased a larger meeting place had to be found and the ever-growing congregation started meeting in the Long Room of the Star Inn.
Again the congregation increased and it was decided to build a chapel. A piece of land was acquired beside the Morlais Brook near the small wooden bridge that carried the then small road from Merthyr to Penydarren and Dowlais.
Money was collected and the foundation stone was laid in 1796. Thomas Guest, son of John Guest the founder of the Dowlais Iron Works, who was an ardent Wesleyan and also a preacher, contributed £50 towards the building fund, and indeed preached at the chapel when it was completed. The chapel was completed in 1797 at a cost of £602.13s.7d. This was the first English chapel in Merthyr.
A drawing of the original Wesley Chapel
The congregation continued to grow and in 1860 it was decided that a new chapel should be built. The builders were Messrs Morgan & Edwards of Aberdare. There was a disagreement between the minister, Rev Josiah Matthews and the congregation about the size of the chapel, so after the site for the new chapel had been marked out with stakes, Rev Matthews waited until that night, went out to the site and moved the stakes to make the chapel larger. This subterfuge was not discovered, and it was not until the chapel was finished did Rev Matthews reveal what he had done. The chapel was completed in 1863 at a cost of £880 and was officially opened on 15 January 1863. Incorporated into the building was a house on the north side of the chapel which was intended to be used as a manse for the minister, but it was never used as such and was instead let to private tenants.
In 1871 the trustees of the chapel decided to have a new pipe organ so set up a fund called the “Debt and Organ Fund” to raise enough money to purchase an organ and pay off the remaining debt on the chapel. By 1873 enough money had been raised for the new organ and it was installed at a cost of £192.10s.0d.
In 1913, it was decided to build a new and very grand Central Wesleyan Mission Hall on Pontmorlais Road West across the Morlais Brook from the chapel, on the site of the Old Drill Hall. It would have been connected to the chapel by an arcade. Plans were actually drawn up for the Mission, but before building began the First World War broke out. Due to the subsequent upheaval, the plans were shelved and the Hall was never built.
The chapel closed on 30 December 1979 due to prohibitive costs for necessary repairs to the chapel, and the congregation moved to Dowlais Wesleyan Chapel. The building has been since used as a furniture shop, and an arts and crafts centre.
Details of the Medal Citation for John Collins’ V.C.
The following is extracted from the book Heart of a Dragon – the VCs of Wales and the Welsh Regiments. 1914-82 by W. Alister Williams.
“On 30 October 1917 the operations against Beersheba commenced as soon as darkness fell with the 231 Brigade moving across Wadi Saba, finding their way across the rough, rocky terrain by means of screened lights illuminating their path. When they reached Kent Wadi, they ran into Turkish patrols which were driven back, thereby allowing the assault troops to deploy ready for the attack by 02.00. The 25th Royal Welch Fusiliers(RWF) was positioned on the right of the 74th Division, in the centre of the line where, along with the 24 RWF, they were to be the brigade’s two attacking battalions, with D and A Companies in the front. The infantry were supported by artillery, but not on the scale used on the Western Front. Instead, the crews of the 100 fields guns and twenty heavy guns had to be selective in their targets and endeavour to react as much as possible to the changing fortunes of the battalions in the attacking force. The 60 Division, on the right of the line, who were to commence the attack, were to initially receive the full support of the artillery.
As dawn broke over the eastern horizon, the Turkish artillery opened with very accurate shrapnel fire on the British troops on the hills and at 06.48, D and A Companies moved forward into the heavy shrapnel fire and, as soon as they came within range, into machine-gun fire. Just over half an hour later, a message was received that the British artillery were having to cease firing as they were unable to see their targets because of the dust. Despite this, and ignoring their casualties, the battalion edged forward to the final crest of the hills before charging the enemy positions. Every effort was made to silence the Turkish machine-guns but to no avail, and the battalion paid a very heavy price in men killed or wounded.
The ridge was traversed with a hail of lead and a line of dead, all shot through the head, that marked the limit of the advance testified alike to the determination of the attack and to the accuracy of the Turkish shooting. It became clear that to call on men shooting from behind no sort of cover to use their rifles against machine-guns very strongly entrenched was throwing away lives to no purpose. Automatically everyone drew in under cover of the last ridge and waited for some turn in the battle which would afford the infantry the opportunity to push on and bring matters to a definite conclusion. (Historical Records of the Montgomeryshire Yeomanry).
The sight of so many of his comrades lying exposed in front of the ridge was too much for Collins. With total disregard for his own safety, he rushed forward several times to bring the wounded back behind the ridge from where they could be carried back to receive emergency medical treatment.
Over to their right, the 60 Division had been held up whilst trying to take Hill 1070 and the limited artillery was concentrated on that area of the front. This precarious situation continued for several hours and at about 11.00, Capt Fitzhugh, leading the Lewis Gun section stood up to try and identify the position of a Turkish machine-gun which was causing his men considerable problems. As he panned across the front with his binoculars, he was shot in the head by a sniper and killed. Although only a junior NCO, Collins was now acting a rallying point for the men in his section and others around him. Less than an hour later, the artillery switched its fire to the Turkish positions in front of the 74 Division and obliterated a particularly strong redoubt in front of the 25 RWF. This had an immediate effect and the fire from the Turks in front died down as their trenches disappeared under the barrage of exploding shells. The infantry then fixed bayonets and advanced through the still uncut wire defences, enfiladed by rifle and machine-gun fire as they tried to take what little cover there was. Within a few minutes, they had captured the enemy position, killing large numbers and taking 140 prisoners. Collins was at the forefront of this charge and is reported to have bayonetted fifteen of the Turkish defenders. Having secured the trench, he then led members of the Lewis gun section and set up defences ready to repel any possible counter-attack. The fighting in this sector ended at about 15.00. Miraculously, despite being under fire for over nine hours, Collins escaped unscathed. The attack had cost the battalion 2230 casualties.
The delay in capturing the area south-west of Beersheba prompted the Corps commander to order a classic cavalry charge by the 4th Australian Light Horse which crossed the open ground east of Beersheba and captured the town, thereby forcing the Turks to withdraw and open the route for an assault on Gaza which fell to Allenby’s forces one week later.”
It was for his actions that day that Collins was awarded the Victoria Cross. The Citation reads:
“For most conspicuous bravery, resource and leadership when, after deployment, prior to an attack, his battalion was forced to lie out in the open under heavy shell and machine-gun fire which caused many casualties. This gallant non-commissioned officer repeatedly went out under heavy fire and brought wounded back to cover, thus saving many lives.
In subsequent operations throughout the day, Corporal Collins was conspicuous in rallying and leading his command. He led the final assault with the utmost skill in spite of heavy fire at close range and uncut wire. He bayonetted fifteen of the enemy and, with a Lewis gun section, pressed on beyond the objective and covered the reorganisation and consolidation most effectively although isolated and under fire from snipers and guns.
He showed throughout a magnificent example of initiative and fearlessness.”
He was decorated with the VC by HM King George V at Buckingham Palace on 1 June 1918.
Details of the Medal Citation for the DCM.
“……..(As part of the assault on Jerusalem) on 29 Nov 1917 D and B Company were ordered to take the village of Beit-ur-et-Foqa commencing at 20.00 and arriving at 03.30 the next day. The assault commenced 15 minutes later and, at first, everything went well. D Company and part of B Company, a force of only 80 men, traversed the difficult terrain and reached their objective just as dawn was breaking, catching the Turkish garrison completely by surprise as they were either forming up on parade or preparing a meal. Dividing his small force into two Maj Rees advanced and captured a Turkish officer. When they reached the village, using the prisoner as an interpreter, they called upon the garrison to surrender. The Turks appeared to be complying with the request before opening fire with six machine-guns which fortunately had little effect, as the men were able to take cover behind low garden walls from where they returned fire. Collins, by this time a sergeant, was instrumental in organising part of his line and was able to bring very effective fire onto the Turkish positions. In a very short period of time, the Turks began to put up their hands and the entire garrison quickly surrendered. The Welsh troops found themselves in charge of more than 450 prisoners and a small escort was detailed to take them back to the British lines. Maj Rees attempted to contact the British line for support but was unsuccessful. The main Turkish force then realised that Beit-ur-et-Foqa had been captured by an under-strength British unit and began to close on the village from all directions. By 08.00 they were surrounded and under fire from all sides. Amongst the four officers and thirty men, John Collins played a pivotal role in visiting each group of defenders to ensure that they were being used to the best possible advantage. Rees, realising that his position was untenable, then withdrew his men from the village and succeeded in reaching the British lines at 09.45. The village was recaptured later that day by a stronger force from the 2259 Brigade.”
It was for his actions that day that Collins was awarded the Distinguished Conduct Medal. The Citation reads:
“For conspicuous gallantry and devotion to duty. As soon as the enemy opened fire at point blank range, he rallied all the men near him, took control of a portion of the line, and brought every available rifle to bear on the enemy.
During the consolidation he did exceptionally good work, and later, when the enemy counter-attacked, went under heavy fire from post to post to see that they were being held to the best advantage.
His ability and devotion to duty were of the highest order”
Collins was decorated with the DCM by the Brigade Commander on 4 January 1918.
Memorial stone for John Collins at St Tydfil’s Church
Most people will have heard of Sir Henry Morton Stanley, the journalist and explorer who was famous for his exploration of central Africa and his search for missionary and explorer David Livingstone. He is the person who is supposed to have uttered the famous phrase “Dr Livingstone, I presume?” upon finding him.
A few people may know he was Welsh, having been born John Rowlands in Denbigh on 28 January 1841, but how many people know that his great-grandfather is buried in Merthyr Tydfil?
The following article from the Western Mail 128 years ago today will tell you more….
Ceremony of the Conferment of the Freedom of the County Borough of Merthyr Tydfil
by Carl Llewellyn
On Thursday 18 April 2002, the County Borough of Merthyr Tydfil bestowed two of its sons – Dowlais born Sir Glanmor Williams C.B.E and Cefn Coed born Major Tudor Price M.B.E, the freedom of the town.
The ceremonial proceedings began at St. Tydfil’s Church, where invited guests were able to view the Conferment of the nominated Honorary Freemen. I was fortunate to be an invited guest through my association with the Merthyr Tydfil Historical Society. At the commencement of the ceremony a fanfare of trumpets hailed the entrance of the Mayor, preceded by the mace and accompanied by the Chief Executive; Council Leader; Leader of the opposition; local Councillors; Mayor’s chaplain; present Freemen and Honorary Freemen elect.
The procession led by the Mayor proceeded to the designated platform assembled in front of the Church altar where the Master of Ceremonies, Mr Gordon Gray called for silence for prayers to be said by Canon Gareth Foster. The Chief Executive then read the notice convening the meeting with confirmation by the Council who unanimously agreed the proposal and indicated their confirmation by voting again.
The Mayor asked both Sir Glanmor Williams and Major Tudor Price if they would accept the Honorary Freedom of the County Borough of Merthyr Tydfil, and after both men agreed they were asked to read the oath. The Mayor then presented both honourees with their illuminated Commemorative scrolls, with floral tributes presented to Lady Fay Williams and Mrs Elsie Price by the Mayoress. The Master of Ceremonies then introduced a young lady called Zoe Perman who entertained the gathering with her angelic voice.
She sang “Ar Lan y Mor” and “Bring Him Home”, and the acoustics of St Tydfil’s Parish Church assisted Zoe’s vocal ability producing a harmonious resonance. The ceremony finished with the singing of the Welsh National Anthem, and the Mayor led the procession, preceded by the Mace, and followed by the Civic Party Honorary; Freemen and Members of the County Borough of Merthyr Tydfil, to Rhydycar Leisure Centre, where a celebratory dinner awaited the invited guests. The Mayor’s Chaplin Canon Gareth Foster said grace, with the toasts proposed by the Mayor.
In keeping with tradition the dinner menu was Cawl Cennin (Leek soup ) followed by Roast leg of lamb with laver bread stuffing topped with crisp pastry, served with mint sauce and redcurrant jelly, also hasselback and baby new potatoes and braised leeks, sugar snap peas, and baton carrots. The third course was a Raspberry Mist, followed with Cheeses, celery and grapes. To finish there was coffee and after dinner mints. The after dinner speeches began with Councillor Royston Thomas, leader of the local labour party, giving an account of why the nominees Sir Glanmor Williams and Major Tudor Price where chosen as freemen.
Sir Glanmor Williams C.B.E.
Sir Glanmor Williams is undoubtedly one of Wales’ most illustrious living sons. His achievements all testify to the strength and affectionate links he feels for the town of his birth Merthyr Tydfil. On the commencement of the 21st Century, when perhaps distinguished academic accomplishments require strength and popular models, Sir Glanmor serves as a shining example through his hard work, loyal endeavour and dedication to the generation in South Wales. Sir Glanmor justifiably meets all the requirements for conferring the, Freedom of the County Borough. He is one of the great contemporary Welshman admired and respected throughout the cultural life of Wales and indeed throughout the world. When Sir Glanmor was called upon to make a speech, he described himself as “Bachgen o Dowlais”. He then went on to comment about dizzy professors, which led him to a story about an old Minister in Dowlais, who was very forgetful. One day when he arrived at one of the railway stations in Dowlais he’d forgotten his railway ticket. The ticket collector, realising the Minister’s dilemma, said, “Don’t worry about your ticket Reverend, I know who you are.” The Reverend answered, “Thank you, kind Sir, it’s very kind of you, but the ticket is not my biggest problem, I’ve forgotten where I’m supposed to be going”.
Major Tudor Price M. B. E.
Major Tudor Price has achieved many things in his lifetime, not only in the Armed forces, but also in the community at large, Indeed when the Queen bestowed the honour in 1982 , it was for his developments in relationships between military and civilian population. Major Tudor joined the South Wales Borderers in 1946, rising through the ranks and eventually commissioned into the Welsh Regiment before retiring as a Major in 1989. He saw active service in Korea, Cyprus, and Northern Ireland, and was stationed in Hong Kong and Germany in a career spanning 43 years, serving King, Queen and Country. There is no doubt that Major Tudor Price is a man of presence who is not only a great ambassador for the Royal British Legion but also for Merthyr Tydfil.
In the past 100 years the town of Merthyr Tydfil has only conferred the honour of freeman on at least 27 occasions, which clearly underlines the importance of such an honour.
The next chapel in our series is Wesley Chapel in Pontmorlais.
The following is extracted from the book Heart of a Dragon – the VCs of Wales and the Welsh Regiments. 1914-82 by W. Alister Williams.
