Tag: Dowlais

Co-operative Stores for Bedlinog

The article transcribed below appeared in the Merthyr Express 110 years ago today (16 July 1910).

CO-OPERATIVE STORES FOR BEDLINOG

OPENING CEREMONY

The Dowlais Co-operative Society opened their first branch establishment on Thursday week at Bedlinog. The opening ceremony was performed by Mr. Hugh Jones, Dowlais (chairman of the parent Society), in the presence of a good gathering of delegates from other Co-operative Societies in Glamorganshire and Monmouthshire, and local members. Mr. Jones, who was presented with a silver key by the builder (Mr. Horace J Davies, of Bargoed), congratulated the architect, the contractor, and the Bedlinog members upon the erection of the handsome and spacious building they were opening that day. Forty delegates sat down to luncheon, after which congratulatory speeches were delivered by the Chairman, the Contractor (Mr. H. J. Davies), Mr. T. Andrews, J.P., and other representatives.

In the evening a large gathering took place in front of the shop, and Mr. H. Jones presided. The Chairman, in opening the meeting, explained the objects of the co-operative movement. The idea of organization for the sake of profit-sharing was scouted, and the idea of service emphasised. The provision of good, wholesome food, suitable clothing, and other necessaries at reasonable prices regulated their conduct. Some object to Co-operative Societies taking up trade, holding that it was the province of individuals. Under the individual system, the idea of service vanished, and the accumulation of profits loomed largely, to such an extent that in order to swell their profits, adulteration of goods has been resorted to, and the Government has been compelled to legislate to check the evil. The private trader must now sell margarine as margarine, and not as butter.

Humane conditions of employment for men and women was another object of the movement. Under private traders, human beings were mere machines, utilised for accumulating wealth for their masters, shop assistants and apprentices were subjected to inhuman conditions in the form of low wages, an insanitary living-in system, bad food, and impositions. Co-operation, Trade Unionism, and the Labour movement are proceeding on parallel lines with the same objects in view, of securing for the industrial classes their fair share of the wealth they labour to produce and distribute, and by so doing reduce to a great extent the unnecessary suffering and poverty which exists.

Mr. T. Andrews congratulated the Society upon its courage and enterprise, and exhorted the Bedlinog people to respond in a like spirit. He urged greater loyalty on the part of existing members, and invited others to join the movement. Let them adopt, like the Jews of old, the policy of transmitting to their offspring the spirit of faithfulness. This movement, which was started in a small way, had by today assumed huge proportions. Its branches were spread all over the land. Hardly a town existed in this land but had its co-operative society, and in some towns the movement was powerful. It was one of the most powerful movements recorded in the history of human activity. Its trade was immense. It was the greatest trading concern in the world. It produced boots; it manufactured cloth and cotton, and made clothes and dresses. It possessed several flour mills, soap and candle and chemical works, jam and pickle factories, tea gardens, cocoa, coffee, and sugar plantations. creameries, orchards, and gardens. It had established convalescent homes and subscribed large sum of money annually to hospital and other charitable purposes.

Councillor John Davies (miners’ agent), Dowlais, urged all Trade Unionists to become members. The co-operative movement, he said, was the twin sister of Trade Unionism. It was the bounden duty of every Trade Unionist to become a co-operator, because this movement sought to secure for workers fair conditions of labour; good, wholesome food to sustain them good clothes to protect and adorn them; and a just share of the wealth they produced and distributed. This movement assisted all classes of workers.

Inspector John Edwards, Dowlais, advised all to join the Society. It was a movement started by workers and carried on by them. The Society was started by railwayman, but all classes of people were admitted. Mr. W. Payne, Dowlais, also spoke, and at the close of the meeting the Chairman invited non-members to join the Society, which can be done by paying an entrance fee of one shilling.

The architect of the premises was Mr. Springall, of the Co-operative Wholesale Architects’ Department, Manchester, and the contractor Mr. Horace Davies, Bargoed; and both gentlemen have given every satisfaction in the carrying out of the work. During the afternoon, tea was provided, and a large number of adults and children sat at the tables. The Bedlinog members and their children had free tickets, while non-members paid sixpence each, and the children threepence each.

Bedlinog Co-operative Stores in 1932. Photo courtesy of http://www.alangeorge.co.uk/index.htm

Merthyr’s Lost Landmarks: St John’s Church, Penydarren

by Laura Bray

St John’s Church, Penydarren, has been a local landmark for 150 years.  It was built in 1858 on what was then the edge of Penydarren and over the years its fortunes have waxed and waned; now it is not a church at all, but flats.

St John’s Church and Vicarage in the early 1900s. Photo courtesy of http://www.alangeorge.co.uk/index.htm

The original church was designed by a Mr Brigden of Dowlais and was constructed of patterned stone rubble, with the north entrance under a stone gable. However, with 40 years it had fallen into disrepair and was too small for the growing community which it served, so a concerted fundraising effort was embarked upon to rebuild it. The vicar, the Rev D Evans, realised that the church also needed a hall, but because of the topography of the site, this needed to be underneath the church, which doubled the cost. But the vision became a reality in 1907 when the Bishop of Llandaff laid the foundation stone, and then dedicated the new building on 10 October 1908.

The Interior of St Johns Church. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

The church was designed by the architect Mr Bruce Vaughan, in the Early English style, with faced stonework, arches and windows of red Ruabon brick and 5 light traceried windows. It boasted a nave of 65′ 6″ long by 28′ wide, with two aisles, a south chapel, chancel and choir vestry and could now hold nearly 600 worshippers. The church hall was of similar proportions, with facilities for classrooms.

Not surprisingly such grandeur came at a cost – estimated as £6500, over £750,000 in today’s money, no small achievement.

But as mentioned, such are the vagaries of fortune and while St John’s remained a functioning church, its fabric was gradually neglected over the ensuing decades. Fast forward to the late 1970s and the Rev Bill Morgan took over and began another restoration project, giving the building a much needed facelift and putting in new stained-glass windows. It was rededicated by Bishop John Poole Hughes in the early 1980’s. Lamentably, the church never really recovered its former grandeur and as the 21st century began, the church was slowly closed and boarded up before being sold in 2009 and subsequently demolished.

St John’s Church in the 1970s. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

Merthyr’s Chapels: Radcliffe Hall, Penydarren

The next chapel we are going to look at is Radcliffe Hall Forward Movement Methodist Chapel in Penydarren.

In 1901, members of Hermon and Libanus Chapels in Dowlais started meeting in Penydarren Boys School, and started a Sunday School in the long room of The New Inn, Penydarren.

By 1902 numbers had grown sufficiently for the congregation to build their own chapel. Three cottages were purchased at a cost of £550, and converted into a meeting place which they called Samaria.

On 28 December 1903 Rev E R Jones of Machynlleth was inducted as the new minister. With the advent of the new minister the congregation flourished and it became obvious that a new place of worship was needed. A new building designed by Messrs Habbershon & Faulkner of Cardiff was built by Mr Samuel Evans of Dowlais at a cost of £2,344.

At the stone laying ceremony on 15 December 1904, Mr W Henry Radcliffe the owner of an important shipping company in Cardiff, and a prominent member of the Forward Movement contributed £100 pounds to the building fund. Radcliffe was born in Dowlais and had lived for a time near the site of the new Chapel. In recognition of his generosity it was decided that the new chapel would be called Radcliffe Hall.

On 3 September 1908 the elders of the chapel decided that the cause should become an English cause, and as a result, on 25 October 1908 Rev E R Jones gave his last sermon and announced his resignation due to a combination of ill health and not being happy with the change to an English cause.

During the spring of 1913, the congregation at Radcliffe Hall faced a dispute with the owners of a new cinema which planned to be built next door to the chapel. A committee was set up to oppose the scheme, and every other chapel in Penydarren rallied to support Radcliffe Hall. Due to the public support for the chapel, the committee won their case and the cinema, The Cosy, was eventually built further along the High Street.

Radcliffe Hall closed in 1964 and the building was destroyed by fire in 1976.

Radcliffe Hall in flames in 1976. Photo courtesy of http://www.alangeorge.co.uk/index.htm

Memories of Old Merthyr

We continue our serialisation of the memories of Merthyr in the 1830’s by an un-named correspondent to the Merthyr Express, courtesy of Michael Donovan.

We must, however, return to the Canton Tea Shop opposite Castle Street, and keep up that side of the road. There were but few shops on that side, the majority being cottages. There was no opening through to the tram road, but courts of some kind existed. The large chapel (Pontmorlais Chapel) was building or about being finished, and next above was a coal yard of the Dowlais Company, chiefly for the supply of coal to their own workmen. Mr John Roberts had charge there, I should say, perhaps, that the coal was brought down by the old tramroad, and there was a short branch into the yard from it.

Some ten or a dozen cottages intervened between the cottage of the coal yard and the one that projected towards the road. This had a few poplar trees around it, and was years after, I cannot say how long previously, occupied by Mr Morgan, a stone and monumental mason, now in business on Brecon Road.

Morgan’s Stonemason’s in Pontmorlais. Photo courtesy of http://www.alangeorge.co.uk/index.htm

On the upper side of this was an opening to the tramroad, which was not above 80 or 100 feet from the High Street, and then a painter and glazier’s shop kept by Mr Lewis, who afterwards removed a short distance into the Brecon Road, and the shop became that of a saddler (Powell by name). Adjoining this was the Morlais Castle Inn, of which Mr & Mrs Gay were the host and hostess. Mr E. R. Gay, the dentist, of High Street, is the youngest, and it is thought, the only survivor of the family, which consisted of three boys and two girls.

A narrow shop intervened and the turnpike gate was reached. Only a few yards beyond a cast iron bridge spanned the Morlais Brook. On the left a person named Miles lived. His son, Dr Miles, increased its size and subsequently practised there.

One road now leads off to Dowlais, and the other towards Brecon Road, or as it was generally called, the Grawen, but immediately in front is a wall 10 or 12 feet high there, but as the road on either side ascends is tapered down on both sides. The old Tramroad from the Dowlais and Penydarren Works to their wharves on the Canal side near Pontstorehouse ran over this embankment, and a cottage nestling in the trees there was occupied by Mr Rees Jones. No other residence of this kind existed on the Penydarren Park except the house itself and its three lodges. At one time there were some steps leading up to the Park near the turning and junction of roads, one going to the Grawen and the other going to Pontstorehouse, but that gap was built up, and the only public entrance then became that close to the Lodge in Brecon Road by the pond.

The old steps leading to Penydarren Park (now the site of the Y.M.C.A. Photo courtesy of http://www.alangeorge.co.uk/index.htm

To be continued at a later date……

Merthyr Memories: The Last Days of Old Dowlais

Some of my fondest childhood memories are the frequent trips I would go on to Dowlais with my aunty.

This would have been in the 1970s when Dowlais was undergoing what was officially called ‘redevelopment’, but which most people would call total devastation. At the time, of course, I was too young to understand the full implications of what was going on – I was just too fascinated by the ‘tractors’ as I called them……I had a fascination with ‘tractors’, and I had quite a few Tonka toys of diggers, cranes etc. Little did I know then the havoc these were causing and the vast amount of history that was being casually swept away.

The ‘Redevelopment’ of Dowlais. The derelict shell of Lloyd’s Bank in Union Street in the 1970s. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

My aunty, who had lived most of her life in Penydarren, had visited Dowlais just as much as she would have visited Merthyr when the former was in its hey-day. Dowlais, then, had everything – cinemas, banks, shops of every description – everything anyone would need for everyday life. By the 1970s however, most of these had gone, and only a few buildings and businesses held on for dear life as the bulldozers slowly worked their way up Union Street. Yet, my aunty would still do what she could in Dowlais.

I remember that we would catch the bus up to Dowlais – we’d go regularly as my aunty would go to ‘pay the coal’ in a business, if I remember correctly, in Church Row. We’d walk up past the Co-op, never the other side of the road…..I didn’t like walking past the steeple of St John’s Church – it frightened me!!! I remember the adverts in the window for various things, and also the posters advertising ‘Co-op stamps’.

Dowlais Co-op in the early 1900s. Photo courtesy of http://www.alangeorge.co.uk/index.htm

Sometimes, after ‘paying the coal’, we would go around the corner to see the then derelict Dowlais Stables and my aunty would tell me all about Josiah John Guest and the Ironworks and about Lady Charlotte opening a school there. Other times we would call into Dowlais Library for her to change her books, and she would chat with David Watkins the marvellous librarian there whilst I looked at the books in the ‘Children’s Library’.

We would also call into one or two of the few shops that were remaining. I particularly remembering going to the shop of Mr Segar’s – the watch and clock repairer in North Street, and be fascinated by all the different clocks around the place. Another shop we would always visit was Crynogwyn’s – the dressmaker in Union Street. This was simply because Crynogwyn or ‘Aunty Cryn’ was an ‘honorary Aunty’. My father, had worked with Cryn’s husband Jack on the railway for many years, and they were very close friends. Cryn was a tiny, gentle, very quietly spoken lady with jet-black hair, and she was one of the finest seamstresses in Dowlais.

Crynogwyn’s Shop in Union Street not long before it was demolished. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

After we had finished all we had to do in Dowlais, we would catch the bus home from outside Ferrari’s Café. If I had been very good (and of course I always was), we would go into Ferrari’s and I would have a cup of hot chocolate as a special treat.

Ferrari’s Cafe in Dowlais. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Collection

These were simple things, but they still remain fresh in my memory. St John’s Church, Dowlais Stables and the Library are all still there, but everything else has gone – swept away in the name of progress. Redevelopment or vandalism? You decide.

In Search of the Dowlais Railway

by Victoria Owens

When the Taff Vale Railway between Merthyr Tydfil and Cardiff received its authorisation in 1836, the Act gave the Railway Company leave to construct a branch to the tramroad at Dowlais. For various reasons, the Railway Company procrastinated over the work, with the result that the Dowlais Iron Company eventually took responsibility for making the Branch themselves. The terms of the 1849 Dowlais Railway Act authorised them to build not only the line, but also a passenger station, situated close both to the Iron Works’ lower entrance gate and the Merthyr-Abergavenny road.

Sir John Guest

Although the 1849 Act allowed the Iron Company five years to complete the railway, it was in fact ready in three. Financed by Sir John Guest, MP for Merthyr Tydfil, promoter of the TVR and soon to be sole partner in the Dowlais Iron Works, at a mile and sixty-eight chains in length, the steep gradient of its route up Twynyrodyn Hill meant that its lower part operated as an inclined plane. The Newcastle firm of R & A Hawthorn designed a stationary engine capable of drawing trains of up to six carriages in length and 33 tons in weight over s distance of 70 chains and 30 links, up the 1 in 12 slope. It had two horizontal cylinders of 18 inch diameter and 24 inch stroke and worked at 50 strokes per minute. The steam pressure was 30 lbs psi.

Viewing its erection in March 1851, a local newspaper drily enquired whether in ten years’ time, a ‘chronicler of local events’ might have reason to report the completion of a notional line ‘from Dowlais to the extreme point of Anglesey.’

Modest it might be, but at the Dowlais Railway’s official opening in August 1851, Royalty graced the ceremony. Three days before the event, just as Sir John and his wife Charlotte were about the set off on a carriage drive, the horse-omnibus drew up outside their home, Dowlais House, bringing Charlotte’s cousin Henry Layard, known as ‘Layard of Nineveh’ on the strength of his recent archaeological discoveries in Assyria, and with him, his friend Nawab Ekbaled Dowleh, whom the newspapers called the ‘ex-King of Oude.’

With the help of Works Manager John Evans, Charlotte organised every stage in the celebration, from welcoming a party of Taff Vale Directors who had travelled down from Cardiff for the occasion, to pairing up her ten children to walk in the procession: ‘viz. Ivor and Maria; Merthyr bach and Katherine; Montague and Enid; Geraint [Augustus] and Constance; Arthur and little Blanche.’ Flanked, probably as much for show as for protection, by the local police, they made their way to the station, decked with greenery for the occasion, with the school-children and company agents following. The ‘trade of Merthyr and Dowlais’ joined them along the way, all to the accompaniment of music from the combined bands of Cyfarthfa and Dowlais.

An 1880 map of Merthyr and Dowlais showing the Dowlais Railway – shown in red from top right to bottom left

From Dowlais station, the passengers travelled to the top of the incline where their locomotive was uncoupled. Messrs. Hawthorn’s engine lowered the carriages down the slope, and the intrepid travellers made their way on to Merthyr. Some of them chose to continue by TVR to Abercynon, but the Guests and their visitors preferred to return to Dowlais.

Later in the day, a ‘small party comprising about five hundred ladies and gentlemen’ enjoyed a sumptuous meal at the Iron company’s Ivor Works, to be followed by speeches and dancing. Sir John, whose health was none too good, left the festivities early but Charlotte remained on hand to propose the healths the Directors of the Taff Vale railway and to open the dancing with Rhondda coal owner David William James as her partner. With Layard as his interpreter, the Nawab set the seal upon the day’s pleasures by expressing his delight at the hospitality that he had received in Dowlais and asserting that he had never enjoyed himself so much as he had during his ‘brief sojourn’ in Wales.

Although Sir John envisaged the Dowlais Branch primarily as a mineral line, he seems to have been perfectly happy with the requirement that it should also accommodate passenger traffic. Records indicate that over 1853,it came in for usage by 755 first class, 1884 second class and 7253 third class passengers but, sad to say, disaster struck at the end of the year. December 1853 witnessed an ugly accident when a passenger carriage over-ran the scotches to hurtle down the Incline unchecked and two passengers lost their lives, with five more suffering serious injuries. Officially speaking, passenger traffic on the railway ceased in 1854.

Unofficially, as Merthyr Tydfil writer Leo Davies would explain, it was usually possible – given a combination of unscrupulousness and agility- to obtain a lift. In an article of 1996, he described the whole unorthodox procedure in graphic detail. Access was obtained via the wingwall of a bridge and through some railings. The sound of the hawser gave advance warning of the approach of a train on the incline – ‘four ballast trucks, each half-filled with sand.’ Travelling typically at ‘a nice, sedate trotting pace’ there was evidently ample scope for the non-paying passenger to grasp the outside rim of the buffer, and ‘swing both legs up and around the buffer spring housing.’

An aerial view of the Twynyrodyn area. The Keir Hardie Estate is being built to the left and the route of the Dowlais Railway can clearly be seen running vertically in the photo. Twynyrodyn School is visible middle right. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

The Dowlais Railway closed finally in 1930 and the trackbed would be filled in sixteen or so year later, over 1946-7. In the 1990s, when Leo Davies reminisced about the ‘Inky’ as he fondly calls it, the ‘straight, green, grass grown strip of land’ ascending Twynyrodyn Hill remained visible. Perhaps, with the eye of knowledge or faith it remains so. Admittedly, former pupils of Twynyrodyn School remember the old line’s route, but without local knowledge it is not easy to trace. Only a few yards of broad green path survive to mark the site – perhaps – of the old trackbed and the name ‘Incline Top’ given to a hamlet at the edge of a plateau of rough ground extending towards Dowlais and its great Ironworks commemorate the location of Sir John Guest’s last great enterprise.

Sign for Incline Top, photographed May 2019

The Church of St. John the Baptist, Dowlais 

by Carolyn Jacob

The Church of St. John the Baptist, Dowlais was built in 1827, and it is likely that the Dowlais Church was named after its founder and benefactor, Josiah John Guest, iron-master of Dowlais and known as Sir John Guest.

Although brought up a strict Wesleyan Methodist he decided that the religious welfare of the workmen called for a church in Dowlais and that the industrial success of Dowlais called for the establishment of Dowlais as a Parish in its own right. Guest paid £3,000 towards the cost of the building and it was consecrated and opened on 27 November 1827 by Dr Sumner, Bishop of Winchester and former Bishop of Llandaff.

The original St John’s Church. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

Lady Charlotte Guest presented the Church with its Communion vessels and Sir John Guest contributed generously to the maintenance of the clergy at Dowlais; he also supported many chapels in the area. Sir John died in Dowlais on the November, 1852 and a plain Italian marble slab at the top of the Chancel steps still marks where he is buried in St John’s Church. A massive marble columned tablet is inscribed with his epitaph. St. John’s Church thrived and held two services each Sunday, two services in English and also two in Welsh and so it catered for both languages.

Josiah John Guest’s memorial. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

The original Church was a plain, simple, square building with tall windows and a square tower. Gradually the Church has been extended, rebuilt and enlarged.

During the 1890s the main Nave was rebuilt with additions to the aisles to allow room for the growing congregation and enable 800 sittings.The Church was restored at a cost of £4,500 under the direction of the architect E.A. Johnson, who later designed the Merthyr Tydfil Town Hall. Most of the expense was paid by Lord Wimborne, eldest son of the founder Sir John Guest; although a great bazaar in Dowlais raised £1,000 which was a huge amount in those days. The new extended aisle was the gift of Edward Pritchard Martin, General Manager of the Dowlais Iron Company in memory of his father George Martin.

Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

This family also financed the splendid decorative ‘Miner’s Window’ in the Church which show two coal miners digging at a coal face with the caption underneath, ‘The Thing that is hid Bringeth he forth light’. Such an industrial motif in stained glass is quite unusual to be found in a Church.  The bare headed miners, with their picks, candles, and their clothing and boots, present an accurate image of a coal miner (see right).

The interior of St John’s is imposing because of its sheer size. The tall fine oak roof of the Nave is a hammer beam type, supported by 6 larger and 5 smaller corbel tables on each Nave wall. The interior walls are double thick yellow brick. The five plain Early English styled columns with rounded bases can still be seen inset to the new west Nave wall.

Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

The Martin family had charge of the Collieries for the Dowlais Works and the American singer, Donny Osmond, claims descent from this famous Dowlais family, whose Brass plaques and monuments are still in the Church. The enlarged and redesigned Church was opened officially in October 1894 with a special service.

The present Church is a fine structure of Llancaiach blue pennant stone, after the Gothic style of the 13th and 14th centuries.  This wonderful Gothic church has long been a central land mark in Dowlais and has changed little since the late nineteenth century, although the former vestry has been demolished.  St John’s Church is 112 feet in length, with a maximum width of 84 feet and about 60 feet high. The whole construction is of masoned Pennant stone, but the doors and windows are surrounded with lighter coloured ashlar blocks of Forest and Bathstone trimmed with dripstone and moulds. This magnificent church was always perhaps too large for its congregation in this most non-conformist of towns.

The ‘new’ St John’s Church. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

Far less than 10% of the population here attended an Anglican Church. In our more secular times in proved to be too large for its Dowlais Congregation and it closed in 1997. The church is currently undergoing conversion to residential flats which will retain its original fine structure.

Merthyr’s Heritage Plaques: Laura Ashley

by Keith Lewis-Jones

Laura Ashley
Plaque sited at 31 Station Terrace, Dowlais

Laura Ashley, the fashion designer, was born, Laura  Mountney,  at  31 Station  Terrace, Dowlais in 1925.

The Laura Ashley Company was started by Laura and her husband Bernard in a London flat in 1953. It started with tea towels and scarves in their own distinctive style. When the company was floated in November 1985, two months after Laura Ashley’s sudden death, it had become an international group with 219 shops worldwide.