The Rhyd-y-car Flood

by Clive Thomas

40 years ago today Merthyr was shocked by the news that a culvert had burst in a mountain stream and the deluge had inundated Rhyd-y-car Cottages, killing two people and leaving countless others homeless.

December 1979 had been very wet and in the week after Christmas there was serious flooding in many parts of the Borough of Merthyr Tydfil. By Thursday 27th most of the usual areas had been affected, with some properties suffering severe damage. Initially, it was the southern end of the valley which seemed to bear the brunt of the flooding but to the north and near to the town at Rhyd-y-car however, a story of flooding was unfolding which was not only responsible for irreparable damage to property but would also cause the deaths of two people and bring an end to a small but long established community. Here, a breached culvert caused water to cascade from the hillside into a confined area of land occupied by two rows of cottages. The torrent, loaded with silt, stones and other debris surged into cottages, outhouses and along the gwlis and yards between, devastating the properties in its path. To compound the misfortune suffered here and despite heroic efforts by family and friends, recently widowed Mrs. Gladys Jones and lodger Mr. Danny Jones were to lose their lives in the tragedy. Other inhabitants who had been in imminent danger were fortunate to escape serious injury or worse.

Firemen entering an upstairs window at Rhyd-y-car Cottages following the flood. Photo courtesy of http://www.alangeorge.co.uk/index.htm

The cottages at Rhyd-y-car had been built on the banks of Nant Cwm Glo in the first years of the nineteenth century to house ironstone miners and their families who were needed to work at one of the newly opened mines belonging to the Cyfarthfa Ironworks. Twenty-nine cottages were built in two rows, with each unit consisting of a living room/kitchen and a single bedroom. At the back, on the ground floor in an outshot covered by a catslide roof was an extra bedroom and larder. Water would have been carried from the stream and there was no sanitation. Despite these obvious limitations and representing what we would view as a very basic form of habitation they would generally have been superior to the living conditions experienced by those arriving in Merthyr Tydfil from the Welsh countryside.

A section of the 1851 Ordnance Survey Map showing Rhyd-y-car Cottages

Although we have only scant information on the people who lived in the cottages in the first four decades of their existence, there is some evidence that they came mainly from the counties of Pembrokeshire and Carmarthenshire. The majority would have been Welsh speaking and brought few material possessions to furnish their new homes. By 1841 Rhyd-y-car was already a well established community with 90 per cent of the working population engaged in producing ironstone and coal from the nearby pit. Ten years later the cottages reached their peak in terms of population with a total of 169 inhabitants, averaging almost 6 per cottage.  For almost a further one hundred and thirty years of Merthyr Tydfil’s fluctuating industrial fortunes the cottages housed families who formed part of a close knit and caring community.

By the 1970’s, notwithstanding the many changes that had taken place in the immediate locality, most of the inhabitants remained loyal to Rhyd-y-car , treasured and tried to improve their homes and this in itself is a tribute to the  strong and steadfast community that existed there. Following the events of December 27th 1979 however, and despite the fact that some residents continued to express the wish to remain, it became inevitable that the cottages would have to be abandoned.

Movements for the preservation of significant aspects of Merthyr’s heritage were very much in their infancy at this time but there had been some notable successes. Dowlais Stables, parts of which had been in a state of collapse, the spectacular engine house at Ynysfach and the birthplace of Joseph Parry at Chapel Row had all been saved. Many people locally however, continued to emphasise lost opportunities and mourn the demolition of significant areas of industrial housing.

The decision to demolish and remove some of the Rhyd-y-car cottages, all be it in a piecemeal fashion,was seen as of little consolation and another loss to Merthyr Tydfil. Their survival at the museum in St. Fagan’s, with the potential for a part of Merthyr’s heritage to be seen by hundreds on a daily basis was hardly recognised and not given proper significance.

Rhyd-y-car Cottages in 1982

Nevertheless, negotiations were undertaken between the National Museum and the Merthyr Tydfil Borough Council and necessary plans laid to undertake the removal of six of the twenty-nine cottages to St. Fagan’s. Before demolition of course, the cottages were measured and recorded in great detail but because of the nature of the cottages’ construction individual stones or timbers were not numbered and repositioned on rebuilding.  Within a relatively short period of time, Rhyd-y-car Cottages were erected on a carefully selected site and began their new and very different existence.

On Monday, 27 July 1987 The South Wales Echo announced that on the previous Saturday a special event had been held at the Welsh Folk Museum, St. Fagan’s to celebrate the official opening of Rhyd-y-car Cottages. Curator Dr. Geraint Jenkins who introduced the proceedings said, “Up until this time the museum’s efforts had been aimed at saving buildings from rural Wales but today we have been breaking new ground with the opening of a row of terraced cottages from an industrial town”and  added,” the project was unique in Europe, if not the world by reconstructing the interiors and fabric of the buildings in different periods”.

One of Merthyr Tydfil’s famous boxing sons was present at the event and contributed by releasing a number of racing pigeons. Although not born at Rhyd-y-car, Mr. Eddie Thomas’ grandfather had lived at No. 26 with many aunts and cousins living in other cottages. Dr. Jenkins concluded by saying that, “The day belonged to Merthyr in celebration of the town’s contribution to Welsh Heritage”.

Four Score Years and Ten – Happy 90th Birthday Crosswoods

by Carl Llewellyn

Ninety years ago, on Monday 23 December 1929, Crosswoods food shop first opened its doors. It was the collaboration of David William Wood and William Joseph Cross, experienced in the grocery trade.

David William Wood was born in Montgomeryshire in 1885, and was educated at Corris Elementary School and Machynlleth County School. In 1902, aged 17, Wood entered the grocery and provision trade. He was employed at the time by the largest retailers in the North of England, an by 1909 he became manager of one of the largest branches. For a short time before the First World War he was in the employment of Messrs’ William Harris, Merthyr and then during the he served four and a half years with the Forces, and was twice mentioned in despatches, for meritorious service, gaining promotion to the rank of sergeant-major. After the war he returned to Merthyr Tydfil and continued to work for Messrs’ William Harris, and lived with his wife Elizabeth at Meliden, 5, Garth Villas, Near the General Hospital and attended Pontmorlais Chapel.

William Joseph Cross (known as Joe), was born 19 April 1900, His parents were John Cross and Ruth Rawlings, he was brought up at Cross Farm, Kingsland in Herefordshire. In 1913 when he was only 13 years old, he was sent to Merthyr Tydfil to work for C.M & R Gunson’s, at 68, High Street, a family Grocery, wine & spirit business. On 5 March 1918, he joined the Royal Navy as an ordinary seaman on the ship Victory. When he was demobbed on 6 February 1919, Cross returned to Merthyr Tydfil and resumed his employment with Gunson’s. On 27 August 1923 he married Ruby E Seaman and they lived at 7 Hampton Street, and they had one son Ernest George Woods, who was born 1926.

Having worked for the Gunson family most of his life (except for the period of his conscription), after Joe Cross had a disagreement with the family, so decided to investigate the possibility of opening a Grocery business of his own. Having worked in the local grocery industry he came in contact with David William Wood, then manager of one of Messrs William Harris shops, both men had similar business experiences in the grocery and provision trade.

Although Wood was older than Cross, their business backgrounds were similar, so they made the decision to go into partnership. Mr Wood and Mr Cross’s joint ambition was to serve the people of Merthyr Tydfil under the best possible hygienic conditions, a promise that was kept all through their working lives. After purchasing and renovating a premises at 67 High Street, Merthyr Tydfil, and making provisions for food stocks, a name had not yet been decided upon, an amalgamation of the two surnames Wood and Cross was suggested, after careful thought the name “Crosswoods” was decided upon.

Crosswoods in Merthyr High Street. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

It was a terrific gamble due to the depression in the Merthyr Tydfil Borough, but Crosswords opened its doors on 23 December 1929, and it was through Mr Wood and Mr Cross’s courage, initiative and enterprise the business survived the difficulties of the time.

After the first shop was firmly established a second “Crosswoods” was opened in Aberdare at 25 Seymour Street in early 1930’s. Here again the progress in business was rapid, and proved conclusively that “Crosswoods” was appreciated by the public who could afford the best in foods. Mr Cross took charge of the establishment and moved to Aberdare, and lived at 5 Cledwyn Gardens. In spite of the depression Messrs “Crosswoods” had in a small space of twelve months built up a wonderfully successful high-class business: the secret of their success lying in that they only sold the best of everything; that they studied the art of display; the cleanliness of their establishments and the unfailing courtesy meted to the thousands that patronised their shops. They always excelled themselves in preparation for all seasons with everything required for provisions, groceries, confectionary and delicacies all being of superb quality.

In October 1938, to relieve pressure at Merthyr Tydfil’s “Crosswoods” a third shop was opened at Aberfan.  But after experiencing the business of Christmas of 1937 when pressure of business reached its peak, the firm were compelled to either consider expansion in both Merthyr and Aberdare shops or to deliberately curtail the size of their shops. The directors decided on the first course and Aberdare had its refurbished “Crosswoods” in September 1938, it was described as a shop worthy of the goods sold there. The Merthyr branch acquired 66,High Street and after renovations the shop opened its doors on Friday 25 November 1938. At the time “Crosswoods” was reputed as one of the finest food shops in Wales.

In a statement at the time, David W. Woods said:

“We have taken this step for more than one reason. Firstly, we feel we owe it to those who have put up with so much inconvenience at our old shops, particularly during the busy periods. Secondly, we are optimistic of Merthyr’s and future, and we know from experience that when they are prosperous only the best will satisfy Merthyr People. Thirdly, there is among all classes a rapidly developing pure foods consciousness and sensitiveness to the importance of Hygiene in our food stores.”          

Another innovation Crosswoods introduced in 1938, was a department specially designed for those on special diets and foods for the sick and convalescents. This department had two special features. Nothing would be on sale that did not bear that fullest recommendations of the medical profession, the department would be under the charge of a trained nurse who has specialised in dietetics.

Having had three shops already Merthyr, Aberdare, and Aberfan “Crosswoods” expanded to four shops when a branch was opened in Tredegar after the Second World War.

Crosswoods Staff Dinner in 1940. W J. Cross and D.W Woods are sitting at the head of the table

Crosswoods had been conscious for a very long time about opening of a modern and up-to-date bakery, so, in March 1954, Crosswoods opened their very own bakery behind their shop at 25 Seymour Street, Aberdare. This venture meant they could expand their own products. The occasion was marked by the Mayor of Merthyr officially opening the new bakery. Following the opening ceremony a luncheon was held at the Boot Hotel, Aberdare.

In the early 1950’s Mr Oswald May joined Crosswords, he became General Manager, and later a director of the company. Mr May continued as a company director until his death in 1971. Mr May’s son John Philip May known as Philip, became the company secretary and later in 1959 a director of company.

Philip and Oswald May

Most of the Crosswoods stores eventually closed due to competition from large supermarkets and, by the late 1970s, closed leaving Merthyr’s Crosswoods the only one to survive.

After over forty years at Nos 66 and 67 High Street, Crosswoods moved to Newmarket Walk, Merthyr Tydfil but it only remained there a short period before moving to Victoria Street where it remains today.

Lisa Jones a former Saturday girl, was just 16 and still at school when she joined Crosswoods in 1989. Lisa subsequently bought the business from Philip May in 2003. Since then, Crosswoods has gone from strength to strength, currently employing over 13 members of staff

Crosswoods recently moved to a larger premises three doors away with the aim of introducing new services such as a hot food counter. Since Crosswood’s beginning, customer care and courtesy have been paramount and food quality is of the highest standard – this is still maintained to this day.

Merthyr Memories: Cyfarthfa School Days

by Barrie Jones

Of the many benefits that came to post war children such as myself the most important for me was my passing the Eleven Plus (11+) thus gaining entry to Cyfarthfa Castle Grammar School in September 1960.  Before the ‘Castle’, I attended St. Mary’s Roman Catholic School in Court Street, known to us boys as the “bottom of the town”.  St Mary’s was a small school and boys were taught separately from the girls and even playtimes were held apart.  To this day I can recall the name of only one girl who attended the school during my four years there.  The boy’s school was on the upper floor with the girls occupying the ground floor.  There were only three classrooms on the upper floor, so depending on pupil numbers some doubling up of age groups was necessary.  My age group attended Mr. Dennis Hennessey’s class for the final two years.

St Mary’s 3rd and 4th year boys circa 1959 with Bede Wills our headmaster in his final year before his retirement.

I remember sitting some of the 11+ test papers in the build up towards the final sitting but I cannot remember the final important test.  On the day of the result Mr Cotter, our new Headmaster in that year, called some of us out to the school hallway to tell us we had passed.  We all returned to the classroom to thank Mr. Hennessey for getting us through.  I recall that two boys who had joined our class in the final year to sit their 12+, passed for Quaker’s Yard Grammar School, two from Cefn Coed went on to Vaynor and Penderyn Grammar School, three others went to the County Grammar School, and four of us went to the Castle.  Not a bad number for a small school and I am certain that ‘downstairs’ far more girls than us boys passed.

St Mary’s School, Court Street. Photo courtesy of http://www.alangeorge.co.uk/index.htm

 

Today, pupils attending a new comprehensive school have some prior knowledge of their new school through school open days and primary/comprehensive school liaison.  In my day the first taste of a new school was on that anxious first day of term.  Three of us Castle boys lived in Twynyrodyn, Michael Long in Walter’s Terrace, and Alan Clifford and I on the Keir Hardie Estate, so most weekday afternoons after school we would make the long trek up Twyn Hill together.  After the 11+ result we had more to talk about, and one afternoon Alan came up with an idea on how we could see our new school before our first day of term.  An aunt of his was a cleaner at the Castle and she offered to take us around the school in the summer holidays.  So one morning in August we met up by Penuel Chapel on the Twyn Hill and walked across town to his aunt’s house on the Grawen and from there we were taken up to the school.

My first impression of the school was how big it was! Such long corridors and so many classrooms, how would I ever find my way around?  The place was busy with workmen everywhere and two new classrooms were being built on the ground floor in what I later discovered was the boy’s old assembly hall.  A new gymnasium had been opened in April 1959 on the site of the old ruined coach house and it doubled up as the boy’s new assembly hall.  The new class rooms were necessary to accommodate the impact of the post war baby boom.  The Headmaster, W. Lloyd Williams, mentioned the increase in pupil numbers in his 1958/59 School report to the Education Committee calling it a bulge.  It was a bulge that would last a long time.  Entry numbers continued to increase each year so that by September 1960 the pupil number was 738,405 girls and 333 boys.  More girls than boys were entering each year, in my year (1960) there was even a class 2G for girls only!

On my first day at the ‘Castle’ I found out that my form room 2A was one of the very new classrooms I saw being built on the day of our special tour.  My Form Master, Mr. Alan James Hill (Religious Education), was new to the school also. The Form Master of the adjoining new classroom, form room 2B, was Mr. Vincent Lee, (English), he was a new starter also, but he had the advantage of being a former pupil of the school.  Similar to St Mary’s school we boys were separated from the girls for assembly and play times, we having sole use of the downstairs while the girls occupied the floor above.  What I was not prepared for was sharing lessons with girls, something I hadn’t experienced since leaving the Roman Catholic infant’s school in Morgantown.

Unlike the day of our private tour the School was so full and busy with pupils streaming through the corridors in between lessons shepherded by senior boys, the Prefects.  Surely these were men who towered over us with beard stubble on their chins!  It would take quite a while to settle in but those six years would soon fly by and in my final two years I to would be shepherding pupils in between lessons but with not so much beard stubble.

Charlie Jones

by John Simkin

Charles (Charlie) Jones was born in Troedyrhiw 120 years ago today, on 12 December 1899. He joined Cardiff City in 1920 but after playing in only one first-team game he moved to Stockport County. In his first season with the club he helped them win the Third Division North championship (1921-22).

In March 1923 Jones joined Oldham Athletic in the First Division. However, he failed to prevent them being relegated at the end of the 1922-23 season. Jones scored 5 goals in 56 games before joining Nottingham Forest in 1925.

Jones had developed into a skilful winger and was selected to play for Wales against England on 1st March 1926. Jones had a great game in his country’s 3-1 victory.

In May 1928 Herbert Chapman paid a four-figure sum for Jones. Soon afterwards Chapman signed David Jack, Cliff Bastin and Alex James. They joined a team that included Herbert Roberts, Eddie Hapgood, Tom Parker, Bob John, Alf Baker, Dan Lewis, George Male, Jimmy Brain, Joe Hulme and Jack Lambert.

Herbert Chapman gradually adapted the “WM” formation that he had introduced when he first came to the club. Herbert Roberts was the centre-half who stayed in the penalty area to break down opposing attacks. Chapman used his full-backs, Eddie Hapgood and Tom Parker, to mark the wingers. This job had previously been done by the wing-halves, who now concentrated on looking after the inside-forwards. Bob John and Alf Baker were the men he used in these positions. Dan Lewis was the goalkeeper in what became known as “defence-in-depth”. The young George Male was often used if any of the full-backs or wing-halves were injured.

Pulling the centre-half back left a gap in midfield and so Chapman needed a link man to pick up the ball from defence and to pass it on quickly to the attackers. This was the job of Alex James, who had the ability to make accurate long low passes to goalscoring forwards like Charlie Jones, David Jack, Jimmy Brain, Joe Hulme, Cliff Bastin and Jack Lambert. Chapman told the other forwards to go fast, like “flying columns” and if possible to make for goal direct.

Success was not immediate and Arsenal finished in 14th place in the 1929-30 season. Jones missed only three league games that season. They did much better in the FA Cup. Arsenal beat Birmingham City (1-0), Middlesbrough (2-0), West Ham United (3-0) and Hull City (1-0) to reach the final against Chapman’s old club, Huddersfield Town. Unfortunately, he was not selected for this game.

Herbert Chapman decided to move Jones to right-half for the 1930-31 season. Arsenal won their first five matches and did not lose until the tenth game. Aston Villa took a narrow lead but in November, 1930, Arsenal beat them 5-2 at Highbury with Cliff Bastin and David Jack scoring twice and Jack Lambert once. Sheffield Wednesday now went on a good run and for a while had a narrow lead over Arsenal. However, a 2-0 win over Wednesday in March took them to the top of the league. This was followed by victories over Grimsby Town (9-1) and Leicester City (7-2).

When Arsenal beat Liverpool 3-1 at Highbury they became the first southern club to win the First Division title. The Gunners won 28 games and lost only four and obtained 66 points, six more than the previous best total and seven more than their nearest rivals, Aston Villa.

Jones won a second First Division championship medal when playing in 16 games in the 1932-33 season. Jones was even more important in the 1933-34 season when he played in 29 league games to win his third championship medal.

Charlie Jones retired from football in the summer of 1934. He had scored seven goals in 71 league games for Arsenal. He was briefly manager of Notts County before becoming a successful businessman.

Charlie Jones died in April 1966.

To read more of John Simkin’s excellent essays, please visit:
http://spartacus-educational.com

Memories of Old Merthyr

We continue our serialisation of the memories of Merthyr in the 1830’s by an un-named correspondent to the Merthyr Express, courtesy of Michael Donovan.

A small greengrocer’s shop followed, and then came a china and glass one, kept by a Miss Dyke, then a public house (the Globe) followed by the confectionery shop of Mrs Williams. Her daughters, I believe, Misses Jones, carried on dressmaking etc. One of these young ladies married Mr John Martin, doctor of the Penydarren Works; another Mr Edward Thomas of the Plymouth Works (uncle of the present Mr William Thomas of Oakfield, Aberdare).

Te area of the High Street in question (in the early 1900s). The Globe Inn can be seen at the far right. Photo courtesy of http://www.alangeorge.co.uk/index.htm

The late Mr D C Gunn first opened a business a few doors above. There were some I cannot recall, but not many doors above was the furniture shop of Mr J Davies, one of whose sons carries it on to this day. Dr John Martin resided close here. Then comes the Bush Hotel.

The Bush Hotel. Photo courtesy of http://www.alangeorge.co.uk/index.htm

The Bush Hotel was, as regards its frontage, then as now. Mr Thomas Davies was the host and Mrs Davies the hostess. Many a time Mr Davies could be seen resting or semi-sitting on one of the window sills. He had a pleasant, cheerful face, and a genial smile for everybody. His family consisted of two sons and three daughters, about whom I may possibly say more in another epistle. Next above the Bush was a china and ware shop opened by Mr Daniel Asprey, who afterwards moved higher up; then the Bristol and West of England Bank, of which Mr Walter Thompson was the manager for many years.

Next above was a ready made boot and shoe shop kept by Mrs Goodman. It was at this house Mr Steele, the first agent of the Marquis of Bute, who resided in Merthyr, lodged. A Mr Beaumont was probably the head mineral agent of the Marquis, but he resided about Llandaff somewhere. Mr W S Clark succeeded Mr Steele, and, to the best of my knowledge, Mr Beaumont gave up.

I cannot recall for what purpose the premises where the Merthyr Telegraph was printed were used, but I think they were occupied by a printer and bookbinder named David Jones. Mr Asprey moved into the adjoining shop, and some few doors above was Atkin Brother’s boot and shoe shop. It was here the late Mr George Overton (the coroner afterwards), practised as a solicitor, but this must have been in the forties.

Mr William Todd, who was for a long time cashier at the Hirwaun Works, and who opened a wine and spirit business at Bryant’s Old Brewery in Pontstorehouse, built a premises and carried on the business just here. Close to was Mr John James’s drapery establishment and Mr William Stephens’s druggist shop. There was a public house and then a chapel belonging to the Welsh Wesleyans, which was taken down to form an entrance into the railway station. I cannot recall the name of the public house nor that of one lower down near the Merthyr Telegraph premises, which I have not referred to.

To be continued at a later date….