Tag: Dowlais High Street

Dowlais through German eyes….yet again

In January, I published an article regarding the Prince of Saxony’s visit to Dowlais (https://www.merthyr-history.com/?p=8138). Here is a transcription of another German visit from “Dawlais Works, die Eisen- und Schienen-Walzwerke des Hauses John Guest, in London, 1844” by Carl Klocke.

Anticipation mounts and, finally, at the end of the valley, where the mountains close in, lie the Dowlais works, and to the left and across the top of the peak is the hamlet Dowlais with a few protruding small churches and chapels. As we approach the place, our coachman identifies one of them as Sir John’s chapel, for it was Sir John Guest himself who had it built, then there is Sir John’s market hall and his estate situated directly above the works; next, the garden for Sir John’s horses and the three horsemen on an outing who are passing us, are none other than Sir John’s surgeons. Our omnibus terminates in front of a small, neat guesthouse on the High Street of Dowlais and we are finally at the end of our journey. One can hear the steam engines at work and the roar of the bellows; from the windows on the upper storey one can see the flickering flames of the blast furnaces which, like a nearby fire storm, then illuminate the bedrooms at night and it takes some adjustment in order to fall peacefully asleep. …

Yet, one would not have seen Dowlais properly without having gone for a walk over the surrounding heights during the late evening hours. At Dowlais, Sir John can offer his guests illuminations and fireworks every evening. By comparison, the famous fireworks of the Surrey Gardens in London (where they fabulously depict the Great Fire of London in the year 1666) are but child’s play. The blast furnaces resemble a burning city, whereas further below, the fires and forges, together with the illuminated tall chimney stacks of the steam engines, looks like a city which has just recently burnt down. In the evening light, the not quite extinguished slags gleam like glowing lava; raised up to towering heaps, here and there on the outermost edge of tall mountains, they flow to the valley like burning streams of lava. … However, to witness one such sight, one must never come to Dowlais on a Saturday or Sunday, because Sir John Guest not only quotes Nelson in saying ‘that he expects every man to do his duty’, but he also adds ‘that he likes to see every man enjoy his Sunday’.

It is for that reason that – except for the blast furnaces which, naturally, cannot suffer any disruption – at a fairly early hour each Saturday afternoon, all other fires and steam engines cease their groaning, and the workers and drawn carts swarm from the near and far factories towards town.

Memories of Old Merthyr

We continue our serialisation of the memories of Merthyr in the 1830’s by an un-named correspondent to the Merthyr Express, courtesy of Michael Donovan.

A little way down was the Owain Glyndwr Inn, of which a Mr Thomas Williams was host. He was a brother to the David Williams, Angel. He had a son whom some of your readers may remember as a druggist; his name was John Teague Williams.

There were several roads and streets leading off from this, the High Street, to the road from the Dowlais Inn up to the church; one was called Horse Street from the fact that horses always went up that way; the one on the upper side of the Bush was Church or Chapel Street, I forget which, and would have been a nearer way, but it was exceedingly steep. One of the six shops mentioned was used as a reading room.

An 1851 map showing some of the areas mentioned.

The caretaker or librarian was Mr Henry Murton, a remarkably clever man. To illustrate the character of the man let me give some anecdotes. He was engaged in the Works to carry the patterns to and from the moulders. He had a failing, and was told he had been appointed to a better position on condition that he give up the cup. Expressing his gratitude, of course, the promise to do so was made, but alas broken before the day passed. He was clever too. In Basil Hall’s voyages, reference is made to the earthquakes in South America. Murton designed and made a model of a house that would not be affected by them – this I well remember.

Merthyr Guardian – 2 February 1833

If I may interpolate a personal matter I would say it was in this reading room in the Athaneum the first account of sun pictures was read. It was Fox Talbot’s paper read on the subject before the British Association at the sitting just concluded.

Necessarily Murton’s occupation brought him into connection with master moulder, who, although a man of substance, peculiarly was not a man well informed, and interrogating Murton as to how vessels went across the Atlantic, obtained information as to the mariner’s compass. “Well” said the moulder, “I thought a big ship took boats, and then somehow the boat would guide the ship that way again”.

Passing the entrance to the Dowlais Works there were no cottages on the right hand. The small building with their back to the road were used for store houses for the necessaries of the works. The Police Station was not built, but there was a dwelling inside contiguous to the office. A David Phillips lived there, and two or three generally had lodgings there. George Cope Pearce was one, Edward Davies (we called him Ned) another; he was a brother of R P Davies, an old Dowlais man, but whose name can be seen on the base of the clock in the Circle at Tredegar. R P Davies was for a while the London agent of Messrs Guest, Lewis & Co.

Poor Ned! The last time I ever saw him was a chance meeting near the Tower of London. He had been down to one of the docks to see the ship in which he was going to California. There was no lack of substance in him for he was desirous of making a bet that he would go to any three persons that I pointed out, and persuade them he was known to them. Finding the cause for this, its necessity was avoided, and I parted from him as he went into the City Club to see his brother.

Two others sailed with him, one, Cox by name, and assistant doctor from Dowlais, and another, I think it was a Bramwell, from Penydarren, but they never reached their destination, the ship was wrecked.

To be continued at a later date…….

The Pant Fever Hospital – part 2

by J Ann Lewis

Mr James Ricketts was Superintendant of the Hospital for several years; he was given a Rechabite funeral after his death in August 1899. The Independent Order of Rechabites, also known as the Sons and Daughters of Rechab, is a fraternal organisation and friendly society founded in England in 1835 as part of the wider temperance movement to promote total abstinence from alcoholic beverages. His wife Mary Ann then had charge of the hospital until her death a few months later. Their gravestone lies in Pant Cemetery.

During another outbreak of Typhoid Fever in September 1900, it was felt that the infection might have come from the common food supply, such as milk, or dust carried in the atmosphere from one infected district into another. The bacteria would grow on potato peelings, in water containing small quantities of animal matter, in urine and other excreta. When we remember that in many districts, the common method of disposing of urine slops was into the gutter, it is easy to understand how the disease spread, and it did indeed frequently spread down the street in the direction of slop water. The children playing in polluted puddles that collected in bad and broken surfaces were soon infected, and this would cause the spread of the disease.

There was also much debate as to who should care for the families of men stricken with Smallpox or the like; the committee deciding that poor families should be given 8s per week relief rather than make them paupers and admit them to the Workhouse.

In 1902, one patient suffering from Smallpox slipped away from the hospital and was found talking to several children; the parents were justifiably upset and sent a letter of complaint to the Committee. On another occasion, during their convalescence, two male patients also slipped away and visited the local public house, and on returning to the hospital, broke several windows and some furniture. In due course they were fined for the damage and for exposing themselves whilst suffering from an infectious disease.

I was fascinated to read that in 1906, my grandmother was fined 5s for allowing my father, aged three years old at the time, to sit on the front doorstep of their home in Lower Elizabeth Street, Dowlais whilst suffering from Scarlet Fever.

In October 1902, one man suffering from Smallpox walked from his home in the High Street, Dowlais to the Penydarren Surgery, and came into contact with at least 50 people; this caused great concern as many children had yet to be vaccinated. Another man had tramped all the way from Glasgow looking for work, only to arrive in Merthyr destitute, and dying just 20 days later from Typhus Fever which he had contracted on the journey.

Over time, the residents of Pant and Dowlais became increasing distraught that patients in the hospital were able to receive parcels and converse with outsiders over the wall, and were also seen receiving ice cream from the local ice cream vendors. They were also worried about the precautions undertaken by the nurses and other staff for disinfecting themselves on leaving the hospital.

During the 1902 Smallpox outbreak, at least 13 patients were nursed at the hospital. A petition, signed by 640 people, was presented to the council asking that a temporary hospital be erected away the area and the building be removed. In the meanwhile, Pant School was to be closed while patients were nursed there. It is hard to understand why a school was built so near a fever hospital, and, so fearful were people that some carried Camphor tablets in a little bag around their neck to ‘ward off’ the infection when passing the hospital.

A map showing the proximity of Pant School to the Fever Hospital

When the new Mardy Central Fever Hospital was officially opened in 1907 (a temporary iron structure having been constructed on the Mardy Estate for nursing Smallpox patients a few years earlier), the Pant Fever Hospital was no longer required, much to the relief of the people of Pant and Dowlais. The hospital was destroyed by fire, as planned by the committee, on 24 August 1907.

A photograph showing Pant Fever hospital (in the background)

Merthyr’s Chapels: Wesley Chapel, Dowlais

The next chapel we are going to look at is Wesley Chapel in Dowlais. It has a very interesting history, and is one of the ‘survivors’ of the cull of chapels in the town.

Thomas Guest, the founder of the Dowlais Ironworks was prominent in the Wesleyan Church, and as such, he was a member of Wesley Chapel in Merthyr. In 1805, at Thomas Guest’s instigation, Rev Thomas Evans and Rev Edward Jones, ministers at the English and Welsh Wesleyan chapels in Merthyr came to Dowlais to preach in open-air meetings. When Thomas Guest died in 1807, both ministers carried on preaching and were instrumental in bringing Wesleyan Methodism to Dowlais.

Meetings were held in several places in Dowlais until the worshippers decided to build their own chapel. The site chosen for the chapel was where St John’s Church now stands, but owing to a dispute between the Wesleyan Conference and John Josiah Guest who owned the land, a different site had to be found.

The Welsh Wesleyans had already built their own chapel, called Shiloh at the bottom of Castle Street in Dowlais, and so a plot of land was leased from Mary Overton near to Shiloh Chapel and the congregation built a chapel in 1843.

An excerpt from an aerial photo of Dowlais from the 1920’s showing Hermon (1), Wesley (2) and Shiloh (3) Chapels.

The congregation soon grew and it became obvious that a larger chapel was needed, and the chapel was rebuilt in 1850. The chapel was subsequently renovated in 1875, 1892 and 1915. In 1871-73 a school room was also built adjoining the chapel on the site of the old Wesleyan burial ground.

The second Wesley Chapel decorated for a Harvest Festival in the 1920s

In November 1928, a severe storm caused major damage to the chapel, and the building had to be demolished. A new chapel was built in 1932 at a cost of £1976.18s.6d. The old chapel had faced Dowlais High Street and was approached by a long flight of steps from the street, however when the chapel was rebuilt, it was built facing the opposite way and the main entrance was placed on Castle Street.

Laying the foundation stone for the new chapel in the ruins of the old chapel in 1932.

The old Wesley Chapel was in the centre of the area of Dowlais being redeveloped in the 1960’s. A Compulsory Purchase Order was put on the Chapel by Merthyr Borough Council and the chapel and was demolished in 1967. The congregation were determined that they would not let their cause die and fought to have a new chapel built for them. After much negotiating, a new modern chapel, designed by the Percy Thomas Partnership was built in South Street in 1972 at a cost of £50,000.

The third chapel being demolished in 1967.

Wesley Chapel is now one of the few remaining chapels in Merthyr that is still open and holding regular services.