North Street (Dowlais) – The Melting Pot

by J Ann Lewis

At a meeting held in September 1901 at Cambria Chambers, North Street in Dowlais by the Sanitary Laundry Company Ltd, it was decided to open the Dowlais Sanitary Laundry Company in Pant, with a capital of £3,000 in 300 shares at £10 each.

The ground near Caeracca Villas, described as an excellent site, was leased on 1 November 1901 from Mr Edward Davies, Machen, for a period of 999 years at a reduced rent of £14 per year while it was used as a laundry. It was formally opened on 14 September 1904, with Miss Wood being the first manageress.

Upon receipt of a postcard, a horse drawn van would collect the parcels. All British machinery was used and the water came from a fresh water spring a few hundred yards up the mountain.

After the Laundry closed (unfortunately I have been able to find the exact date of its closure), on 22 September 1933, the then owner, Miss Bertha Jenkins (Consett), gave the building to Christ Church to be used as a much-needed church hall.

On 23 November 1942, as part of the war effort, the hall became a British Restaurant – the first to be opened in the area. This restaurant formed a link in the chain of communal feeding in South Wales, with the policy that people should never again lack food, and that the food eaten should be the kind to make them strong and healthy.

The feeling was that the restaurant was ‘a bit out of the way’, but some thought the bus service was such, that the hall’s position would be of no hindrance to its success. It was opened by Mr E Hill-Snook (Divisional Food Officer), with about 200 people attending the opening ceremony. As well as the meals served on the premises, an outdoor scheme was introduced so that people wishing to take cooked dinners home could do so for the sum of 8d per head.

After the war, the hall was returned to the church until the cost of the upkeep proved too great. By September 1959, the church had leased the hall to Webber’s Cake Factory. Three men, Charlie Webber, K Hill and Bob Roberts opened the factory, and were joined a year later by Bill Healey and Mr Clark, all five becoming managing directors. The factory employed 12 full-time workers, and several part-time workers during busy periods. At their peak they had three vans on the road, selling cakes wholesale, but due to the economic slump in the 1960s, the first was forced to close in December 1966.

The hall remained empty for a while until a group of local residents approached the directors of Webbers Cake Factory asking to buy the building to open a social club, and in 1968/9 the new Pant Social Club opened. The club had a large dance hall, a separate bar and a snooker room with two well used snooker tables. The club proved a great success, and over the years, hundreds of pounds were raised by the members for charity, but by the end of the millennium, membership had fallen and the club closed in 2000. With the building of The Rise, the building was demolished to make way for the new houses.

Some of my fondest childhood memories are the frequent trips I would go on to Dowlais with my aunty.

This would have been in the 1970s when Dowlais was undergoing what was officially called ‘redevelopment’, but which most people would call total devastation. At the time, of course, I was too young to understand the full implications of what was going on – I was just too fascinated by the ‘tractors’ as I called them……I had a fascination with ‘tractors’, and I had quite a few Tonka toys of diggers, cranes etc. Little did I know then the havoc these were causing and the vast amount of history that was being casually swept away.

The ‘Redevelopment’ of Dowlais. The derelict shell of Lloyd’s Bank in Union Street in the 1970s. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

My aunty, who had lived most of her life in Penydarren, had visited Dowlais just as much as she would have visited Merthyr when the former was in its hey-day. Dowlais, then, had everything – cinemas, banks, shops of every description – everything anyone would need for everyday life. By the 1970s however, most of these had gone, and only a few buildings and businesses held on for dear life as the bulldozers slowly worked their way up Union Street. Yet, my aunty would still do what she could in Dowlais.

I remember that we would catch the bus up to Dowlais – we’d go regularly as my aunty would go to ‘pay the coal’ in a business, if I remember correctly, in Church Row. We’d walk up past the Co-op, never the other side of the road…..I didn’t like walking past the steeple of St John’s Church – it frightened me!!! I remember the adverts in the window for various things, and also the posters advertising ‘Co-op stamps’.

Dowlais Co-op in the early 1900s. Photo courtesy of http://www.alangeorge.co.uk/index.htm

Sometimes, after ‘paying the coal’, we would go around the corner to see the then derelict Dowlais Stables and my aunty would tell me all about Josiah John Guest and the Ironworks and about Lady Charlotte opening a school there. Other times we would call into Dowlais Library for her to change her books, and she would chat with David Watkins the marvellous librarian there whilst I looked at the books in the ‘Children’s Library’.

We would also call into one or two of the few shops that were remaining. I particularly remembering going to the shop of Mr Segar’s – the watch and clock repairer in North Street, and be fascinated by all the different clocks around the place. Another shop we would always visit was Crynogwyn’s – the dressmaker in Union Street. This was simply because Crynogwyn or ‘Aunty Cryn’ was an ‘honorary Aunty’. My father, had worked with Cryn’s husband Jack on the railway for many years, and they were very close friends. Cryn was a tiny, gentle, very quietly spoken lady with jet-black hair, and she was one of the finest seamstresses in Dowlais.

Crynogwyn’s Shop in Union Street not long before it was demolished. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Archive

After we had finished all we had to do in Dowlais, we would catch the bus home from outside Ferrari’s Café. If I had been very good (and of course I always was), we would go into Ferrari’s and I would have a cup of hot chocolate as a special treat.

Ferrari’s Cafe in Dowlais. Photo courtesy of the Alan George Collection

These were simple things, but they still remain fresh in my memory. St John’s Church, Dowlais Stables and the Library are all still there, but everything else has gone – swept away in the name of progress. Redevelopment or vandalism? You decide.

Tag: North Street (Dowlais)

Merthyr Memories: The Last Days of Old Dowlais